A guide to wooden kitchen worktops

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Ever since I posted photos of my finished kitchen makeover, I’ve had lots of questions on Instagram about the solid wooden worktops. It seems a lot of people love the way they look but are nervous about installing them in their own homes because of concerns over their durability and maintenance.

We’ve had wooden worktops in various kitchens over the years, and they were the obvious choice when planning this renovation. They’re timeless and versatile, and they help add a bit of texture and warmth to a minimalist space that might otherwise feel sterile. With prices starting at less than £100 per linear metre, they’re also one of the few alternatives to laminate for those of us whose budgets won’t stretch to stone, marble or composite. What’s more, with the right treatment, they’re a lot easier to care for than you might think.

So, to help anyone else who’s considering giving them a go, I thought it would be useful to put together a quick guide to choosing, installing and looking after wooden worktops…

Choosing wooden worktops

There’s a surprising amount of things to consider when deciding which wooden worktops to select for your kitchen. The first thing to look at is which timber to use. Oak is the most common choice (and the one we opted for), but walnut, beech, iroko and ash are all readily available, too. Just make sure you select a hardwood rather than a soft wood such as pine, and always check it comes from a sustainable FSC-certified source.

Wooden worktops are also categorised by the type of staves they use. Staves are strips of wood that are jointed and glued together under high pressure to form a solid worktop – in general, cheaper worktops use shorter, narrower staves, whereas more expensive ones are made from longer, wider staves that give a more consistent appearance. You can also get ‘full-stave’ worktops with strips that run the whole length of the wood, and worktops made from a single plank. We had a total budget of £400 for our worktops, so in a bid to balance cost and quality we turned to the great-value ‘Prime’ option from Worktop Express, which uses staves that are individually chosen for their uniformity. The join between the staves is visible on the edge of the worktops (as shown in the images below), but I don’t really mind as it adds to the character.

Finally, you’ll need to consider what thickness to opt for. Our previous wooden worktops were quite chunky – ideal for rustic kitchens, but not a great fit with the sleek, minimalist look we wanted this time around. We therefore chose much thinner ones – 22mm as opposed to the more usual 40mm or 50mm – and we’re really pleased with them. It’s just worth bearing in mind that thinner worktops aren’t quite as strong, particularly if installed in long lengths, so you might want to stick with thicker ones if your kitchen is likely to get a daily hammering.

Installing wooden worktops

One of the advantages of wooden worktops is that they can be cut to any shape, meaning you can get a perfect fit around sinks, appliances, window ledges and any other features your kitchen might have. They’re normally supplied in lengths and cut on site by a trained fitter, but if you want to have a go at installing them yourself then Worktop Express offers a bespoke cutting service that pre-cuts them to your exact specifications. In either case, make sure you or your fitter follows the manufacturer’s instructions very carefully and uses brackets designed specifically for wooden worktops, as incorrect ones can put too much pressure on the wood and cause it to split.

As wood is a natural material that responds to heat and humidity, you’ll need to allow a 4-5mm gap between the worktop edges and adjacent walls or units to allow it to expand and contract; this can then be hidden with flexible silicone or matching wooden upstands. You’ll also need to use a protective barrier wherever worktops sit above appliances that emit heat or moisture (e.g. ovens, washing machines, dishwashers) – we bought an adhesive one from B&Q, which stuck straight to the underside of the worktop. Finally, make sure you seal around the join between the worktop and sink with a mould-resistant sealant.

Protecting wooden worktops

Wooden worktops need oiling to make them resistant to water and bacteria – at least three coats before installation, with another coat applied once a week for the first six weeks afterwards. There are all sorts of different colours and finishes to choose from, so play around with a few options on an offcut to get the look you want. We used Osmo TopOil in Natural 3068 as it has a matte, slightly white appearance and counteracts any yellowness in the wood – ideal for contemporary Scandinavian-inspired kitchens such as ours. It’s done a great job and liquid now forms ‘beads’ on top of the wood rather than soaking in. It’s not fully waterproof so I wouldn’t want to leave spillages for long before mopping them up, but so far our worktops have withstood water, coffee, juice, tomato sauce and even red wine without any lasting damage! We’ll need to re-oil them regularly – every three-six months is recommended – but it doesn’t take long and it’s a small price to pay to keep them in tip-top condition.

It’s worth noting that oil won’t protect worktops from heat, so always use a trivet or tea towel rather than placing hot pans or trays directly on them. You’ll also need to be strict about using chopping boards whenever you’re cutting anything. That said, one of the good things about wooden worktops is that they can be sanded down and refinished if you do get any burn marks, stains or scratches.

A quick word about varnish – I have seen it used on some worktops, but it’s not generally advised for kitchens. Once dry it’s quite brittle and may crack when the wood expands in the humid environment. If it gets damaged, water can also seep beneath the varnish and get trapped, leading to staining, blistering and mould. Wax isn’t recommended either, as it doesn’t offer enough protection.

Cleaning wooden worktops

If properly oiled, wooden worktops are easy to clean with warm water and a bit of washing-up liquid; you could also add lemon juice or white vinegar to ward off bacteria. Always use a soft cloth rather than a scourer or brush, and steer clear of any chemicals or detergents that might strip the oil or bleach the wood.

A couple of people on Instagram asked how to deal with wooden worktops developing mould around sinks, but I have to say it’s not a problem I’ve ever encountered. I’ve done a bit of research and it sounds like it might be caused by sealant not having been applied properly, resulting in water ingress. Sanding away the mould, re-oiling the worktops and redoing the sealant should sort things out. And if you have an under-mounted or Belfast-style sink, don’t forget to treat the exposed edges of the wood as well as the top!

So there you have it – my guide to choosing, installing and caring for wooden worktops. I think I’ve covered all the questions I’ve received over recent weeks, but if there’s anything else you’d like to know just leave a comment below and I’ll do my best to answer. 

Worktop Express kindly gifted £400 of worktops – equivalent to the amount we had budgeted for the project. We therefore selected exactly what we would have chosen, had we paid in full. I’ve used Worktop Express worktops (paid for) in previous kitchens, too, and always been happy with the quality and service.

All photography by Abi Dare