10 reasons to visit Finnish Lapland in autumn

[Advertisement – this post is based on a press trip. All words and opinions are my own]

There are some destinations that weave their way into your soul – destinations that speak to you from the moment you arrive, and that you long to return to from the moment you leave. For me, Finnish Lapland is one such place. 

I first visited in January 2020, when I journeyed to the small town of Levi, 170km above the Arctic Circle, to review recently opened Design Hotel Levi. I was instantly captivated by the snowy wilderness, the vast skies, the crisp Arctic air, the legends of the indigenous Sámi people, and the ethereal, ever-changing light. And I loved the winter activities, which ranged from exhilarating husky-sled rides across frozen lakes to gentle snow-shoe meanders through silent forests.

I’d been dreaming of another trip ever since, so I was delighted when Design Hotel Levi invited me back to see what it and the area have to offer in autumn. And it turns out there’s a lot. Winter may be peak season here, but September and October have their own kind of magic. The landscape takes on a different allure without its blanket of white, and there’s a chance to experience outdoor adventures that simply aren’t possible once the first snowflakes start to fall. 

Here are 10 reasons why you should visit Finnish Lapland in autumn. 

Ruska foliage

Autumn starts early this far north and by mid-September Lapland is ablaze with vibrant colours, known as ruska in Finnish. It’s a beautiful sight, with shades of gold, ochre and crimson painting the forests and fells. For a particularly impressive visual feast, head out early in the morning, when wisps of mist swirl through the air, or in the golden sunshine of early evening. Or venture along the lakeshores and riverbanks, where the trees are reflected in water so still and deep that it looks ink-black.

Stunning views

It’s not only the foliage that makes for amazing autumn vistas. During my winter visit the lakes that pepper the landscape were hidden under snow. This time around they were revealed in all their beauty, glowing like pools of molten silver amid the sea of boreal forests.

To truly appreciate this majestic wilderness head to the top of Levi Fell, which sits just behind Design Hotel Levi. There are two summits, each served by gondolas (the ‘Express’ gondola from the centre of town and ‘Gondola2000’ from the southern edge) or long sets of wooden steps. The views stretch 100km or so in every direction, and a panoramic walkway winds its way from viewpoint to viewpoint. There are also a few cafes where you can admire the scenery over a warming drink. My favourite was Palovartija, which sits in a tiny log cabin and serves just-baked donuts filled with gooey apple jam.

The Northern Lights

Finnish Lapland is one of the best places in the world to view the Aurora Borealis, said in Sámi mythology to be caused by a fox sparking the sky alight with its tail. And autumn is one of the best times. Not only are there more cloud-free nights, but the solar winds that cause the phenomenon are at their most active in the weeks around the equinox on 21st September. In fact I was treated to a display on every night of the trip, starting with a glimpse as my plane came into land on arrival – a far cry from my last visit, when the Aurora remained stubbornly elusive!

To maximise your chances, it’s worth heading to the top of Levi Fell after dark, or spending a night in a glass-roofed cabin at Northern Lights Village, 6km out of town. I did the latter, and I’ve reviewed my stay fully in a separate post. But suffice it to say that snuggling up in a warm, comfy bed as the sky came alive overhead was a magical experience that I’ll never forget.

Hiking

The cool temperatures and lack of snow make autumn the perfect time to explore Finnish Lapland on foot. There are marked trails of various lengths in and around Levi, ranging from easy strolls to more strenuous treks. The nearby Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park also has a range of hiking routes, and for the particularly adventurous there’s the 50km ‘Jotos’ trail from Levi to Ylläs. 

Outdoor thrills

If you like your activities with added adrenaline, autumn is also a wonderful time for mountain biking. You can hire bikes from Zero Point at the foot of the ‘Express’ gondola, and there’s a bike park on the Fell with routes for all abilities. If you want a guide, Polar Star Travel offers a range of mountain-bike and fat-bike excursions.

Other outdoor thrills include whizzing down the Fell on the metal sled track, which starts next to the top of the ‘Express’ gondola, or taking to the lakes and rivers on a canoe tour, again with Polar Star Travel.

Cocooning & campfire coffees

An unforgettable way to immerse yourself in the Lapland wilderness is a ‘cocooning’ session at HaliPuu (‘Hugging Tree’). It’s the brainchild of Riitta Raekallio-Wunderink and her father, who inherited a beautiful swathe of land and decided to open it up to others. Inspired by the Japanese concept of ‘forest bathing’, they set about creating an area where visitors can lie back in a hammock and soak up the serenity of nature. It was a highlight of my winter trip that I couldn’t wait to experience in a different season, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Snuggled under a blanket, I spent a blissful half hour swaying in my cocoon, this time gazing up at yellow-gold leaves and green boughs rather than snow-covered branches. It was very tempting to drift off to sleep, and many people do, but I wanted to stay awake to appreciate the sights, sounds and scents around me.

Once my time in the hammock was up, I lingered around the campfire for coffee brewed by Riita’s husband Steffan, who describes himself as the world’s first ‘campfire barista’. He’s spent years perfecting a deliciously smoky blend and it was just as good as I remembered – better, in fact, thanks to his latest invention, chai syrup made with Arctic birch sap. Riita’s homemade marshmallows, just-baked cookies and informative chat made perfect accompaniments, and it was difficult not to be inspired by the Raekallio family’s dedication to protecting and sharing the forest they love.

Floating saunas & lake swims

Roasting in a wood-fired sauna then cooling off with a wild-water swim is a quintessential Finnish experience, and one of the best places to try it is Immel Kartano, just outside Levi. I’d been there during my January 2020 trip, when I had to break the ice to take a dip, but in autumn there are ‘sauna safaris’ on a floating platform that’s taken out to the middle of the lake. There’s something wonderful about sitting back in the heat, watching the landscape drift past the window, before plunging into the chilly Arctic water. The temperature change is a shock to the system but it’s an incredible mood-boaster, and trust me: you really do feel amazing afterwards!

Foraging

In autumn Lapland’s forests and fells are dotted with bilberries, blueberries, cloudberries, lingonberries, cranberries and an array of mushrooms. You won’t need to look far to find them, and Finland’s ‘everyman’s right’ allows open access for foraging and other purposes, regardless of who owns the land. 

Bear in mind that some mushrooms and berries are poisonous, and others are only edible once cooked. So, make sure you know how to identify the different varieties or book a foraging experience with an expert guide.

Roaming reindeer

Finnish Lapland is home to 200,000 reindeer, and you’ll spot them wandering freely at any time of year. But autumn is a particularly special time to see them. They’re at their largest and strongest, their thick winter fur has started regrowing, and both males and females sport impressive antlers (the females temporarily lose theirs in spring following the birth of their calves, whereas the males shed theirs after rutting season).

I saw reindeer wandering along the side of the road, dashing through the forest in herds, and gathered beneath trees for a nap. And the enchantment of encountering these beautiful creatures didn’t diminish, no matter how many times I came across them.

Beautiful hotels for less

Finally, autumn is a much cheaper time to visit Finnish Lapland than the winter high season, meaning you can treat yourself to a stay somewhere fabulous for a lot less money. Rates at Design Hotel Levi, for example, start at around half the price of January and February – and, having been there twice now, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it.

You can read my full review of the hotel here, but in short it’s sleek and very stylish yet also deeply rooted in its setting. Created by PAVE Architects, the pine-clad building was inspired by the shape of Levi Fell, with copper-framed windows and balconies that jut out like boulders. It’s just as beautiful inside, where the 77 rooms mix contemporary Finnish design with quirky features such as weathered pine headboards, lichen-like carpet patterns and – my favourite touch – glass screens decorated with abstract reindeer photography by Rovaniemi-based Kaisa Sirén. Most importantly, they’re spacious, pin-drop quiet and incredibly comfortable.

It’s a wonderful Lapland base at any time of year, but certain elements of the hotel come into their own in autumn. I loved sitting out on my balcony with a coffee (definitely not possible during my previous stay, when the temperature was -29C!), and I was captivated by the way the copper glowed in the September sunshine. What’s more, the menu in the on-site Kekäle restaurant was packed with local, seasonal ingredients and everything I sampled (wild mushroom soup, beef tenderloin with almond potatoes, white chocolate and cloudberry panna cotta) was delicious.

If you like the idea of visiting Finnish Lapland in autumn, you can get 30% off stays at Design Hotel Levi until 31st October 2022 with the code AUTUMN22 – book here. Rates start at €168 per night for a double room, and you’ll also get a free gondola pass for the duration of your visit.

Levi is easy to reach via the airports at Kittilä (a 10-minute drive) or Rovaniemi (a two-hour drive). Both are served by some direct flights from the UK, or you can connect in Helsinki. There are also regular trains to Rovaniemi from elsewhere in Finland, including an overnight sleeper service from Helsinki. The hotel can arrange transfers, and taxis are readily available for getting around if you don’t want to hire a car.

Canoeing image via Polar Star Travel; floating sauna image via Immel Kartano. All other photography by Abi Dare