It’s time for the final instalment in my series rounding up the stylish accommodation options in Portugal that I came across while planning and researching last year’s 10-day road trip through the country with a friend. I’ve already covered the best places to stay in the eastern Algarve, the rural Alentejo region and the coastal resort of Comporta, and today it’s the turn of the Douro Valley – our penultimate stop before we ended our journey in Porto.
This was actually my second time in the Douro Valley, having spent a few days there with my husband back in 2015, but I was more than happy to return. Snaking from Porto to the Spanish border, it’s one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world and is truly beautiful, with steeply terraced vineyards plunging down towards the languid river and tiny white-stone villages clinging to verdant hillsides.
You can see some of the Douro Valley on a day trip from Porto, as there are regular trains on the line that runs between the city’s São Bento station, the regional centre of Peso da Régua and the pretty little town of Pinhão, hugging the water’s edge for much of the journey. But I would definitely recommend spending several days here if you can, giving you time to visit a few wineries, take in the scenery (perhaps on a boat trip along the river itself) and relax. And there are some wonderful hotels and B&Bs to stay at – here are a few of my favourites…
Quinta do Vallado
First up is the base for my 2015 visit to the Douro: Quinta do Vallado, one of the most renowned vineyards in the area. Set on the banks of the River Corgo, a tributary to the Douro, and close to Peso da Régua, it was once run by the legendary Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira – one of the few women in the 19th-century wine industry – and remains in the hands of her descendants to this day.
Quinta do Vallado is a hotel of two halves, in the best possible way. Five of the 19 guest rooms and suites sit in the original ochre-coloured manor house and are more traditional in style; the others occupy a striking contemporary schist-covered building, which also houses a small restaurant serving up local produce and veg from the garden. I stayed in the new wing and loved the clean, angular lines, the mix of modern and mid-century furniture, and the private balconies and picture windows, all angled to give spectacular views over the steep terraces of vines. There’s also an outdoor pool and hot tub, plus free winery tours and tastings for hotel guests – a great way to learn about the quinta’s long history and sample its excellent red, white, rosé and Port wines.
Book a stay at Quinta do Vallado here [AD – affiliate link]. Rates start from €195 per night.
Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta
Also set on a working winery is Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta, which is perched just above the Douro itself near Pinhão. It dates from the 18th century, with some parts thought to be even older, and it still oozes original character despite extensive renovations.
Ventozelo’s 29 double and twin rooms are spread across several restored stone houses and embody simple rural elegance, with whitewashed rafters, breezy linen curtains, leather ‘Butterfly’ chairs and stacks of vintage suitcases for bedside tables. There are also standalone rentals of various sizes, including a sprawling six-bedroom abode and a romantic hideaway for two on the site of a former animal shelter. Almost all have stunning views over the surrounding vines and valleys, as does the infinity pool, restaurant and wine bar. Best of all, though, are the rambling grounds, which encompass a wine museum, a farm shop, an olive-oil press, lavender-fringed lawns, a small chapel, orchards and herb gardens which supply the kitchen, and plenty of secluded nooks where you can sit back with a glass of one of the estate’s own vintages.
Make a reservation at Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta here [AD – affiliate link]. Rates start at €150 per night.
Lamego Hotel
Set just outside the country town with which it shares its name, Lamego Hotel is a little larger than most of the others featured here but it’s far from faceless. The 98 pared-back double and twin rooms are decorated in earthy browns and beiges, with handmade wall hangings, woollen blankets, suede-covered chairs and wooden headboards adding texture and warmth. Some have living areas behind slated wooden dividers where extra beds can be made up for kids, and all look out over the valley or the pretty gardens.
Outside is a heated pool flanked by loungers, olive trees and cushioned bench seats; inside a L’Occitane spa with another pool, a Nordic bath, a sauna and a tempting range of treatments. The restaurant, meanwhile, spills out onto the terrace, with sweeping views over the surrounding hills and a menu of rustic Portuguese classics. There’s also a lounge-bar where you can sample wines from the hotel’s nearby quinta, plus an informal tapas bar set under a romantic vine-entwined pergola.
Book a stay at Lamego Hotel here [AD – affiliate link]. Rates start at €125 per night.
Douro Palace Hotel
Douro Palace Hotel was the base for our road-trip stop in the Douro, chosen for its location near Aregos station (a steep 15-minute walk down the hill), which meant we could get out of the car and explore by rail. The reception, bar and lounge sit in an innovative glass-walled building constructed around the old blue-tiled manor house that has long occupied the site, with floor-to-ceiling glass gazing out over the landscape. From there, lifts descend to the 60 double and twin guest rooms, spread across two long wings built into the hillside. All are spacious and very comfortable, with private balconies and views over the Douro to the hills beyond.
The lower wings also house a spa with a thermal circuit, relaxation spaces and nature-inspired treatments, while outside is a heated pool with yet another wonderful river vista. Guests are also free to explore the kitchen gardens and farm, where there are herbs and vegetables destined for the restaurant (sadly the one place in the hotel without much of a view), plus chickens and friendly goats to meet.
See more of Douro Palace Hotel and make a reservation here [AD – affiliate link]. Rates start at €110 per night.
Quinta de São Bernardo
Another great base for seeing the Douro by train is Quinta de São Bernardo, a beautiful boutique hotel sandwiched between the railway and river, just 450m from the rural station of Barqueiros. Part of a small family-run winery, it has nine guest rooms set under rafters in the main farmhouse, plus a separate suite in a standalone villa with its own pool and terrace. The decor throughout is understated and timeless, with soothing neutral colours and green-tiled ensuites pepped up by sections of eclectic rabbit-print wallpaper here and there.
The communal areas are just as appealing, with a laid-back restaurant, a lounge with board games and sink-into armchairs, a greenhouse for romantic private dinners, and a stunning infinity pool perched just above the water’s edge. There’s also a small spa with a cave-like indoor pool, plus regular winery visits and tastings. If you want to be more active, staff can arrange e-bikes and buggy tours, together with boat trips, kayaking and paddle-boarding straight from the hotel’s private jetty.
Reserve a room at Quinta de São Bernardo here [AD – affiliate link]. Rates start at €225 per night.
A Padaria Farmhouse
This little B&B sits at the Porto end of the Douro Valley, in a secluded farmhouse near the town of Cinfães. It’s minimalist and serene, with soothing white-washed interiors, picture windows and eight simple yet comfortable double rooms, including some with sofas and balconies. There’s no restaurant, but friendly owner Maria and her mother prepare delicious breakfasts each morning using ingredients from the organic garden, and guests are welcome to whip up their own snacks in the kitchen. There’s also an inviting communal lounge with a fireplace, plus a terrace and a picnic area set among the trees. Nearby, hiking trails, sun-dappled glades, spectacular viewpoints and riverside eateries await.
Make a reservation at A Padaria Farmhouse here [AD – affiliate link]. Rates start at €85 per night.
Quinta da Côrte
One of the smaller wine estates in the Douro Valley, Quinta da Côrte is the place to come if you want to combine a relaxed, homely atmosphere with eclectic contemporary design.
First constructed in the 17th century, it’s now owned by French art collector and winemaker Philippe Austruy, who collaborated with architect and interior designer Pierre Yovanovitch to bring the once-dilapidated buildings back to life. The results exude warmth, with sculptural organic forms, a striking steel staircase and unexpected pops of colour alongside traditional azulejo tiles and original fireplaces. There are now eight guest bedrooms (all doubles) spread across the main house and several outbuildings, each mixing local materials and antiques with vibrant artwork, rugs and ceramics. Outside is a sprawling garden with a stone swimming pool and vine-shaded terraces, and winery tours can be arranged on request. I’ve also heard excellent things about the breakfasts, afternoon teas and home-cooked suppers, served up around a communal table in the gorgeous tiled dining room.
Make a booking at Quinta da Côrte here [AD – affiliate link]. Rates start from €200 per night.
For more Portugal travel inspiration, see my round-ups of the best places to stay in the eastern Algarve, the Alentejo and Comporta, my city guide to Porto, and full details of our Portuguese road trip itinerary.
Please note this post contains affiliate links (all clearly marked), which means I will receive a small commission on any resulting bookings. You won’t pay any more by clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly, and it helps to support the free content I create here.
Quinta do Vallado images three-seven and Douro Palace images one, three-five and seven by Abi Dare; all other photography via the respective hotels
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