The Nordic Arctic – the band of sub-polar wilderness that stretches across northern Finland, Sweden and Norway (Sápmi to the indigenous Sámi people) – draws me back again and again. I can’t quite put my finger on why I love this remote part of Europe so much. Maybe it’s the vast skies, which come alive with the dancing Aurora Borealis for much of the year. Maybe it’s the stunning landscapes and extreme seasons, which each bring their own kind of beauty. Or maybe it’s because a recent DNA test revealed I have Arctic ancestry in several strands of my family. Whatever the reason, it’s a place that really does speak to my soul.
I’ve been lucky enough to experience the Finnish and Swedish Arctic several times, and I’ll be taking my very first trip to the Norwegian side next month. As a result, I have a mental list of amazing hotels and hideaways that I’ve either stayed at or hope to visit, and so I thought I’d share my favourites with you today. All blend stunning design with a close connection to nature and a strong sense of place – a combination that never fails to inspire me, and that I hope will inspire you, too.
I’ve focused on what these places have to offer in the winter months, but the Nordic Arctic also has plenty of appeal at other times of year, from the summer midnight sun to stunning fall foliage. For a taster, check out this Instagram post and my guide to visiting Finnish Lapland in autumn.
Finland
The Arctic Circle bisects Finland’s northernmost region, Lapland. A largely unspoiled swathe of pine forests, fells and lakes where reindeer roam freely, it’s become incredibly popular as a destination in recent years – not least because of efforts to market it as the home of Santa Claus. As a result there’s an array of hotels to choose from, and I’ve picked out three of the best below. They’re centred around the regional capital of Rovaniemi and the ski-resort town of Levi, which lies a two-hour drive to its north. Both are easy to reach via regular flights to Rovaniemi and Kittilä airports (in low season, you might have to change in Helsinki), and there’s also an overnight train from Helsinki to Rovaniemi.
Northern Lights Village Levi
Finnish Lapland now has a number of hotels with clear-roofed accommodation where you can watch the Aurora from the warmth of bed, but I can recommend Northern Lights Village Levi in particular because I’ve stayed there myself. Set 16km outside town, it’s well away from any light pollution and its 40 cabins are positioned so that every one has a clear view to the north (the direction in which the lights tend to appear). They’re simple but beautifully done, with wood-lined walls, soothing grey and white decor, electric fireplaces to keep you toasty, sofabeds for kids, ensuite showers, and an iPad for contacting reception and checking the Aurora forecast. But the main draw, of course, is the glass above your head, complete with laser heating that clears away snow or condensation at the tap of a button.
At the heart of the resort is a fire-warmed restaurant and bar, the paths to which are lined by candles after dark. It’s a cosy and convivial space to relax while waiting for the skies to light up, and the contemporary Finnish food (smoked reindeer salad, Arctic char with wild mushrooms, chocolate tart with sea buckthorn) is delicious. There’s also a sauna and hot tub that you can book for private sessions, and staff can arrange activities such as husky-sledding, snowmobiling, reindeer safaris and snowshoeing.
You can read my full review here, but in short I had a great stay (and yes, I did see the Northern Lights!). It’s just worth bearing in mind that hot water is limited to 20 minutes at a time (just long enough for two people to have a shower), and there’s no option to cover the glass if you find yourself craving full darkness.
Make a booking at Northern Lights Village Levi here. It also has a sister resort with a near-identical set-up near Saariselkä in Finnish Lapland’s northeast, which you can book here [AD – affiliate links].
Design Hotel Levi
Another place that I’ve stayed at myself (twice, in fact) is this contemporary hotel in the heart of Levi itself. It’s sleek and very stylish yet also deeply rooted in its setting – a great base if you want to combine Arctic character with all the facilities of a town and easy access to Levi’s ski slopes.
Created by PAVE Architects, the pine-clad building was inspired by the shape of Levi Fell, with striking copper-framed windows and balconies that jut out like boulders. It’s just as beautiful inside, where the 77 rooms (some duplexes spread over two floors) mix contemporary Finnish design with quirky features such as weathered pine headboards, lichen-like carpet patterns and lights that can be set to resemble the colours of the Aurora. My favourite touches are the glass screens encasing the ensuite bathrooms, which are decorated with abstract reindeer photography by Rovaniemi-based Kaisa Sirén – just one example of the hotel’s ongoing efforts to support local artists.
There are several restaurants to choose from, including an informal pizzeria and the top-end Kekäle, whose mouth-watering menu is packed with local, seasonal ingredients. Guests also get access to the spa next door, which is more like a public swimming pool than anything high-end but fun to visit nonetheless.
Read my full review of Design Hotel Levi here and make a booking here [AD – affiliate link].
Arctic TreeHouse Hotel
Dotted across a forested hill just outside Rovaniemi, Arctic TreeHouse Hotel’s 52 oblong cabins rest on stilts among the trees. There are several types, some with saunas, bathtubs and sitting areas, others with hidden children’s beds that are reached via ladders. All have kitchenettes for whipping up drinks and snacks, plus calming Nordic-minimalist decor that encompasses blond wooden furniture, neutral textiles and soft sheepskins or reindeer hides on floors and chairs. But the biggest draws are the panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows (here with curtains), which offer beautiful views of the surrounding landscape and, if you’re lucky, the Northern Lights.
The hotel’s restaurant, Rakas, is located in the main reception building and serves up local ingredients prepared with a modern twist. Its dark-clad walls create a cosy, cave-link ambiance that contrasts with the snowy scenes outside, and the tables sit beneath pendant lamps shaped to look like pine cones. There are also inviting bar chairs around a circular fireplace, plus a small spa with a traditional Finnish sauna and various treatments. Private meals can be arranged around a campfire outside, while younger guests will be delighted to discover that Rovaniemi’s SantaPark and Santa Claus Village are both close by. It’s also well-placed for the airport, so it makes a good option for a quick weekend break or a few nights at the start or end of a longer trip.
Book a stay at Arctic TreeHouse Hotel here [AD – affiliate link].
Sweden
Similar in landscape to Finnish Lapland but less well-known among international visitors is the historical Swedish Arctic province of Lappland, which encompasses parts of the modern-day counties of Norrbotten and Västerbotten. It’s reachable by flights to Luleå and the mining town of Kiruna (via Stockholm if you’re coming from outside Sweden), and by trains (often overnight) to Boden and Kiruna.
Treehotel
Founded by Kent and Britta Lindvall, Treehotel was the result of an idea that sprung up around the campfire on a fishing trip with various architect friends: getting them to design one wilderness hut each and making them available to paying guests. After buying a traditional guesthouse and the surrounding land in the small village of Harads, the couple set about making the dream a reality and opened the doors to their new venture in 2010.
Now owned by Jonas Olsson and Hannah Wennebro Olsson, Treehotel has developed a reputation as one of the most unique and iconic places to stay in Scandinavia. There’s some accommodation in the original building, but most people come here for the eight ‘tree rooms’, which are hidden high among the branches. All are different, and all are architectural marvels – there’s the bird box-covered Biosphere, the reflective Mirrorcube, the spacecraft-like UFO and the twig-enclosed cocoon of the Bird’s Nest, to mention just a few. Inside they’re pared-back yet comfortable, with plywood walls, sitting areas gazing out over the landscape, and fun touches such as sunken beds, bouncy nets or rope bridges. Some are designed for two people, others have space for four-five, and children and animals are welcome in most.
Staff can organise all sorts of activities, but it’s also the kind of place where you can just sit back and savour the stunning setting. As for the food, it’s served up in a cosy, retro-style dining room in the guesthouse, with a focus on natural bounty from the surrounding forests, rivers and lakes.
Make a booking at Treehotel here [AD – affiliate link].
Arctic Bath
Created by the same people as Treehotel, Arctic Bath sits on the Lule River on the other side of Harads. Architects Bertil Harström and Johan Kaupp took their cue from the extremes of the Arctic seasons, designing structures that float on the water in summer and are frozen to the ice in winter.
The circular main building is reached via a jetty and was inspired by the logjams that often built up when newly felled tree trunks were transported down the Lule in flotillas. It houses a restaurant, a lounge bar, spa treatment rooms, hot tubs and several saunas, with a bracing outdoor plunge pool where you can take a dip in the river itself at its centre.
Half of the 12 rooms consist of small floating cabins which fan out to either side of the main building and have 360-degree decks offering sunrise and sunset views. The others occupy stilted glass-fronted cabins on the treelined shore and are much larger, with living rooms and mezzanine bedrooms connected via spiral staircases; some can sleep up to five people. All are decorated in simple Scandinavian style, with neutral colours, wood-clad walls and a sprinkling of high-end design by the likes of Swedese and &Tradition.
As with Treehotel, nature is very much the focus, so expect foraged ingredients on the set multi-course food menus, wildflowers and local berries in the massage oils and scrubs, and renewable energy throughout. There’s also a wide choice of excursions taking guests out into the wilderness, from moose safaris and hikes to ice fishing and lantern-lit dinners beneath the stars.
Book a stay at Arctic Bath here [AD – affiliate link].
Ice Hotel Sweden
Ice hotels have sprung up all over the place in recent years, but the original – and I would argue the best – sits by the Torne river, just outside Kiruna. I was lucky enough to spend a few days there last year during a dream collaboration with Swiss brand Victorinox, and I even got to have a peek behind the scenes at how it’s constructed.
Created by international artists and designers, the hotel is carved from ice harvested from the river and kept at a constant temperature of -5 to -7C. Most of the rooms are temporary and melt back into nature come spring, but some sit within a permanent area called IceHotel 365 that’s open year-round. There are also normal ‘warm’ hotel rooms, so most people come for two or three days and just spend one night in the ice section.
Each room is different, and they’re all works of art – this year, there are spaces inspired by Agatha Christie mysteries, birds in flight and even Sámi knitting, among other things. My all-time favourite was a beautiful 2022-2023 midsummer-themed room conceived by Swedish design duo Bernadotte & Kylberg, who froze fresh flowers and branches into the ice. All of them have comfy mattresses, reindeer hides and thermal sleeping bags to keep you snug, and there’s a 24-hour heated service area with bathrooms and a sauna where you can warm up if needed. It’s an experience like no other, and in my opinion one not to be missed – but even you don’t fancy staying overnight, non-guests can visit during the day for a look around and a drink in the ice bar (served in glasses made from ice, of course).
Make a booking at IceHotel Sweden here [AD – affiliate link].
Norway
Norway’s three northernmost counties, Nordland, Troms and Finnmark, offer a different kind of Arctic landscape to Finland and Sweden – one that’s characterised by deep fjords and glaciers, with a multitude of islands and skerries along the coast and forested mountains further inland. They’re also home to the stunning Lofoten archipelago, and the vibrant Arctic cities of Bodø, Narvik and Tromsø. There are numerous international flights to Tromsø, and domestic flights from Oslo to Bodø, Narvik and the small Lofoten airports of Leknes and Svolvær. Bodø is also reachable by rail from Oslo, and Narvik via an overnight train from Stockholm which winds up through Sweden before crossing the border into Norway.
Nusfjord Village & Resort
Huddled around an inlet, with mountains rising on either side, the tiny harbour village of Nusfjord is undeniably beautiful. So, when faced with economic hardship and a dwindling population as its traditional fishing industry declined, the residents found an ingenious way to keep their community alive: opening it up as a hotel where visitors can experience the nature, culture and food of the Lofoten Islands.
The result is a wonderful resort that blends modern facilities with character and soul. The guest accommodation takes the form of authentic fishermen’s cabins known as rorbu, which are scattered across the village – some on stilts by the water’s edge, others in the historic centre. All have been lovingly restored, with a considered mix of contemporary and vintage furniture alongside original timber beams, wood-lined walls and occasional sea-faring memorabilia. There are options for two-six people, and most have living areas; some come with their own kitchens, too.
As well as the guest cabins, the village is home to several restaurants: the seafood-focused Karoline, the laid-back Oriana Tavern, and the quaint Landhandleriet Café, which is housed in the old general store. There’s also a wellness area with a traditional wood-fired hot tub and a sauna, plus a gallery showcasing the work of local artists. And there are all sorts of activities on offer, including guided hikes, private boat tours, fishing excursions, kayaking trips, Northern Lights hunting and more.
Book at stay at Nusfjord Village & Resort here [AD – affiliate link].
Black Aurora Nook
For those seeking sleek, minimalist design in a similarly spectacular Lofoten setting, Black Aurora Nook is ideal. Standing between the towering peak of Higravstinden and the vast waters of Austnesfjorden, this luxurious black-timber hideaway is the creation of architect Elisabeth Dirnbacher, who added panoramic glass, a large deck and a soaring roof to maximise views of the scenery and sky.
Inside, the house has an open-plan living area, a fully equipped kitchen, two bedrooms, a bathroom, and an additional children’s sleeping space tucked beneath a sloping ceiling. There’s also a turret-like gallery with a cushioned window seat where you can watch for the Northern Lights, spot sea eagles swooping above the fjord or just settle back with a book. Throughout, rustic pine cladding is offset by striking black accents, and much of the furniture and fittings – including a stunning three-metre-high sliding door – were handcrafted by a local carpenter.
The house is set up for self-catering, and there are shops and restaurants in Svolvær, a 20-minute drive away. There, you’ll also find an array of tour operators and activity providers offering everything from cross-country skiing to wildlife-watching boat safaris. As for hiking, that’s available straight from the door.
Make a booking at Black Aurora Nook here [AD – affiliate link].
Manshausen
A three-hour drive or an hour-long boat journey north of Bodø lies the tiny private island of Manshausen – a secluded and very peaceful spot that’s home to a beautiful design-led retreat. Perched right on the rocks are seven contemporary timber ‘Sea Cabins’, all with glass-encased sitting areas that jut out over the waves. Inside they’re compact but very cleverly arranged, with beds and kitchenettes separated by a wooden divider that doubles as dining counter. The star feature, though, is the view, which soars over the water to the craggy peaks beyond.
As well as the cabins, the island has a cosy restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, often based around local delicacies and produce grown in the on-site kitchen garden. There’s also a natural swimming pond which is constantly refreshed by the sea and lit by underwater lights after dark, plus a sauna, a hot tub and wooden easy chairs around a campfire on the shoreline. A pair of black-clad ‘Sea Towers’, with accommodation spread over two levels, are under construction and due to open later this year.
When it comes to activities, guests can borrow kayaks, rowing boats and fishing equipment, or book on guided sea-eagle safaris, climbing trips and cave tours. The island’s shuttle boat is also on hand to run you over to the mainland for mountain hikes and more.
Book a stay at Manshausen here.
Please note this post contains affiliate links (all clearly marked), which means I will receive a small commission on any resulting bookings. You won’t pay any more by clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly, and it helps to support the free content I create here.
Design Hotel Levi images one, four, five and six by Abi Dare; all other photography courtesy of the respective hotels
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