Top tips for a city break in Porto

My recent road trip through Portugal with a friend ended with a fabulous 48 hours in Porto. This was actually my third time in the country’s beautiful, beguiling second city (I’ve also been there for work and with my husband), so I’ve decided to combine tips from all my visits into one comprehensive, updated Porto travel guide.

Located in the north of Portugal where the Douro river meets the sea, Porto is one of Europe’s oldest settlements and grew rich on the trade of port wine. Its long history is evident in the tangle of alleyways that make up the Unesco-listed Ribeira waterfront, the multitude of ornately tiled medieval churches, and the elegant Art Nouveau townhouses that dot the downtown Baixa district. But there’s also a contemporary buzz about the place. Urban investment has led to cutting-edge architecture, burgeoning culture and design scenes (mostly centred around the arty neighbourhood of Cedofeita), a snazzy modern metro system, and an ever-increasing array of bars, restaurants, concept stores and boutique hotels. It feels welcoming, laid-back and creative, if still a little shabby around the edges – not unlike my own home town of Bristol, which was the destination for much of Porto’s wine and now happens to be one of its twin cities.

It’s a wonderful place to spend a few days, and anyone with an interest in design, food or history is sure to find themselves as captivated by Porto as I did. So, whether you’re visiting for a city break or as part of a wider trip, here are my recommendations for where to stay, eat, drink and shop, plus top tips on what to see and do.

Stay at:

Rosa Et Al Townhouse, Rua do Rosário 233, Cedofeita

I absolutely loved this beautiful boutique hotel, set in a restored townhouse in Cedofeita. Spread across the original building and a new garden wing, the seven suites mix contemporary design with vintage mid-century modern finds; some also have clawfoot bathtubs and private terraces. Downstairs is a relaxed living and dining room, and the brunch is legendary (see ‘Eat At’ below). You can read my full review here.

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1872 River House, Rua do Infante Dom Henrique 133, Ribeira

Another place that I can recommend from personal experience (I’ve stayed there twice now) is 1872 River House, set in a skinny pastel-pink townhouse on Ribeira’s riverfront and accessed via a stunning stained-glass walkway. The eight bedrooms are an elegant mix of old and new, and many feature original tiles and fireplaces; those at the front have Douro views. Breakfast treats include custard tarts, and in the afternoon you can sit back in the lounge with a glass of port and a slice of homemade cake as boats pootle past the window.

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Exmo. Hotel, Rua do Infante Dom Henrique 55-61, Ribeira

Owned by the same people as 1872 River House and also situated in a restored Ribeira townhouse, Exmo. Hotel has 16 simple but stylish rooms, some with watery views and one with its own terrace. The furniture is perfectly pared-back, and there’s a bar for wine, cocktails and light meals. The star feature is the sleek spiral staircase at its core, which forms a stunning contrast with the time-worn stone walls.

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Na Travessa Suítes, Travessa de São Sebastião 39, Baixa

This design-led city-centre B&B is owned by Pedro and Mariana, who lovingly renovated their historic townhouse before opening the doors to guests in 2020. The minimalist interiors blend clean, contemporary lines with exposed stone walls and plywood beams, and every one of the eight rooms has a balcony. There’s also a peaceful courtyard garden and a long communal table where breakfast is served.

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Mouco Hotel, Rua de Frei Heitor Pinto 65, Bonfim

Located in a suburban area just a quick metro hop from downtown, this music-themed hotel comes complete with its own performance venue, rehearsal space and record library. The rooms have a bit of a 1970s California vibe thanks to their wood-clad walls, mid-century modern furniture and swathes of brown leather, and some include kitchenettes and balconies. It’s all done well enough that it isn’t tacky, and the outdoor swimming pool is a real bonus.

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Flattered to be in Porto, Rua Senhora da Luz 145, Foz do Douro

Another good option for those who want to stay a little further from the action is this cluster of stylish serviced apartments, set by the sea in the coastal suburb of Foz do Douro. Each sleeps two-five people, with an open-plan living area and kitchenette, a bed in a clever raised box or on a mezzanine, and another bed that rolls out from a wall. The decor offsets crisp white walls with pops of colour, and some of the apartments have views of the crashing Atlantic waves.

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Eat & DRINK at:

Cantinho do Avillez, Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 166, Baixa

I’ve eaten at this refined yet relaxed place twice now, and both meals have been excellent. Run by renowned Portuguese chef José Avillez, it combines traditional Portuguese ingredients with inventive twists such as ‘exploding’ olives, served up in a chic wood-lined interior with red leather banquettes. There are also a few vegetarian options, and I can highly recommend the Pisco sours!

Cantina 32, Rua das Flores 32, Baixa

Housed in a cavernous vintage-industrial space with concrete walls, exposed pipework and assorted bric-a-brac, the lively and informal Cantina 32 offers small tapas-style dishes and larger sharing plates. Many are contemporary takes on Portuguese cuisine (quail’s egg croquettes, bacalhau, sautéed octopus with sweet potato) and there’s a great selection of wines and cocktails.

Época, Rua do Rosário 22, Cedofeita

This minimalist little cafe was one of my favourite spots for breakfast and brunch, but it’s just announced that from now on it will be serving a seasonal lunch menu instead. If my past experience is anything to go by then it’s sure to be excellent, and the (mostly vegetarian) dishes on its Instagram page – couscous with courgette babaganoush and preserved lemon, panzanella salad with homemade focaccia – certainly look delicious.

Rosa Et Al Townhouse, Rua do Rosário 233, Cedofeita

Non-residents can book tables at Rosa Et Al Townhouse for relaxed brunches and afternoon tea, and I’d highly recommend that you do. The dishes are prepared by co-owner and cookbook-writer Emmanuel, and everything I sampled during my stay was wonderful. It also opens for roasts on the first Sunday of every month, and there are regular supper clubs featuring guest chefs.

Tia Tia, Rua do Almada 501, Baixa

Owned by chef Tiago Feio and his wife Cátia Roldão, Tia Tia is a minimalist stone-walled space that spills out into the courtyard behind. The lunch menu is simple but delicious, with a focus on sharing plates and seasonal vegetables, and the drinks selection showcases natural wines. It also opens for dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Morro d’amores, Rua da Bainharia 99-101, Baixa

I’m very glad I stumbled across this tiny little wine bar, hidden down a steep alley near the cathedral. It sells Portuguese wines by the glass or bottles to take away, and the friendly owners really know their stuff. There’s just one small counter and a couple of tables inside, but you can perch on the cushioned steps outside when it’s busy. And if you get peckish, there are cheese plates with artisan honey and homemade jams.

Mercado do Bolhão, Rua Formosa 322, Baixa

Porto’s much-loved Bolhão market has just reopened following a lengthy renovation and it’s a place transformed. When I first visited in 2015 this 110-year-old Beaux Arts icon was dark and dingy, with a crumbling roof and layers of grime. Now, it’s a gleaming space filled with natural light and happy chatter, its glass canopy and ornate ironwork cleaned up and restored. The traditional traders remain, but they’ve been joined by wine stalls, deli counters and coffee shops where you can linger and watch the hustle and bustle around you. There’s also talk of restaurants opening up on the first floor, but that was still empty as of May 2023.

See, do & explore:

Ribeira and Ponte Dom Luís 1

With its narrow pastel-hued townhouses, burbling fountains and jostling boats, the protected waterfront neighbourhood of Ribeira is postcard-pretty. The quayside is the biggest draw thanks to its street performers and alfresco restaurants, but make sure you explore the maze of atmospheric laundry-strung alleyways just behind it, too. Afterwards, walk across the iconic metal-arch Dom Luís 1 bridge (both the lower car deck and the upper metro deck are open to pedestrians) for amazing views.

Port tasting in Vila Nova de Gaia

It would seem wrong to visit Porto without learning more about its most famous export, port wine. The port lodges are located in Vila Nova de Gaia on the other side of Ponte Dom Luís 1 from Ribeira, and most offer cellar tours and tastings (I’d recommend Taylor’s for its panoramic terrace and strutting peacocks). Alternatively, head to Espaço Porto Cruz, which has an array of different tasting options (some including chocolates and tapas platters) alongside exhibitions, a wine shop, a restaurant and a rooftop bar.

Portuguese Centre for Photography, Cadeia da Relação, Largo Amor de Perdição, Baixa

Set in a former prison built in 1796, the Portuguese Centre for Photography hosts temporary and permanent exhibitions from local and international photographers. The building itself is surprisingly beautiful given what it was designed for, and its soaring stone arches and plain white walls make the perfect backdrop for the works on display. There’s also a fascinating collection of cameras from across the ages on the top floor.

São Bento station, Praça de Almeida Garrett, Baixa

Often dubbed one of the world’s most beautiful train stations, São Bento is decorated with huge azulejo murals depicting moments from Portuguese history. It’s often packed with tour groups – and rushed commuters trying to dodge their way around them – but it’s still worth popping in for a look. There are sometimes temporary exhibitions (on my last visit, a display of fascinating photos from Portugal’s 1974 ‘Carnation Revolution’) in the main hall, too.

Porto cathedral, Terreiro da Sé, Baixa

Another place worth visiting for its beautiful azulejos is the cathedral (or Sé, in Portuguese), located at Porto’s highest point. Its tiled cloisters provide a lovely spot to escape from the sun, and there’s also a tower with sweeping views over the city, the river and the coastline beyond.

The tram to Foz do Douro

Most of Porto’s metro system is fast and ultra-modern, but Line One still retains the vintage wooden trams that once rattled their way around the city. It’s a fun and scenic ride, leaving from Infante (just outside 1872 River House) and following the bank of the river until it spills into the Atlantic Ocean at Foz do Douro. Foz do Douro itself is a then lovely place to spend a couple of hours before you head back the way you came, with swathes of sand, a lighthouse and several open-air beach bars for drinks or lunch.

Casa da Música, Avenida da Boavista 604, Boavista

Designed by architect Rem Koolhaas, Porto’s main music venue fuses contemporary space-age architecture (its gleaming wedge-shaped exterior has been likened to something from Star Wars) with undulating glass and traditional tiles. There’s a restaurant on the top floor, but if you want to see the rest of the building without attending a concert you’ll need to book on one of the daily hour-long guided tours (€12 per person).

Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Serralves, Rua Dom João de Castro 210, Lordelo do Ouro

It’s a bit of a trek out to the Museu Serralves (you’ll need to take the metro to Casa da Música then a bus), but it’s worth it. The work of Porto architect Álvaro Siza Vieira, this minimalist haven – all clean lines, white walls and crisp angles – hosts modern art exhibitions and various other cultural events. It sits on the 18-hectare Serralves Estate, which also has a salmon-pink Art Deco villa, leafy parkland, water features, outdoor sculptures and a cinema house to explore.

Shop at:

CC Bombarda, Rua de Miguel Bombarda 285, Cedofeita

This bijou mall houses a wonderful range of concept stores and independent shops, mostly focused on lifestyle and design. My favourites were Cork Matters, which has a selection of furniture, lighting and home accessories made from sustainable cork, and Collectiva, which sells pieces by emerging jewellery designers from Porto and beyond.

Ó! Galeria, Rua de Miguel Bombarda 61, Cedofeita

Artist and photographer Ema Ribeiro opened this little shop and gallery to showcase up-and-coming illustrators who lacked a place to exhibit their work. It now stocks books, magazines and prints from around the world, and a sister space dedicated to ceramics, Ó! Cerâmica, sits just around the corner at Rua de Adolfo Casais Monteiro 61.

Earlymade, Rua do Rosário 235, Cedofeita

Set up to resemble a gallery rather than a traditional retail space, concept store Earlymade has a selection of fashion, home accessories, books and leather goods, mostly designed and made in Portugal. It also hosts occasional supper clubs, workshops and exhibitions, and in the warmer months there’s often a pop-up coffee bar in the garden at the back.

Livraria Lello, Rua das Carmelitas 144, Baixa

Opened in 1906, this grand Art Nouveau bookstore is said to have inspired elements of the Harry Potter novels. Whether that’s true or not, it’s a stunning space, with wood-panelled walls, a sweeping double staircase and stained-glass windows. It’s become so popular with tourists that you now have to buy a ticket to get in, but the €6 cost (or €5 if you book ahead online) is redeemable against any purchases.

The Fleeting Room, Largo dos Lóios 86, Baixa

Set behind arched windows in recently renovated square Largo dos Lóios, The Fleeting Room is home to a curated assortment of local brands, Portuguese designers and international labels. It’s spread across two floors, with men and women’s clothing, bags, accessories, jewellery, stationery and more.

LOT, Rua de José Falcão 144, Baixa

Younger sister of The Fleeting Room, LOT (Labels of Tomorrow) opened its doors in June 2022 to showcase up-and-coming names across fashion, art, food and cosmetics. It occupies a historic 19th-century building and encompasses various retail zones, together with an art gallery, a cafe and a courtyard garden.

Don Lopo, Rua dos Caldeireiros 43, Baixa

It would be easy to walk past this gem of a store as it’s set back from the street and accessed via an arched alleyway and patio, but it’s definitely one not to miss. Founded by married couple Paulo and Piedade Ribeiro, who spent 30 years in the fashion industry before deciding to launch their own venture, it stocks mens and womenswear alongside jewellery and other accessories. It’s located in and named after the former Hospital Don Lopo de Almeida, which was Porto’s very first hospital when it opened in the 12th century and has been beautifully restored.

Claus Porto, Rua das Flores 22, Baixa

Claus Porto has been making soaps, perfumes, lotions and scented candles in the city since 1887 and is now known across the world. The full range is on display at its highly Instagrammable flagship store on Rua das Flores, where you’ll also find a treatment area and an exhibition detailing the company’s long history.

Suuuper, Rua de Sousa Viterbo 73, Baixa

Run by architect, interior designer and teacher Diva Cruz, this Tardis-like shop stocks contemporary art, ceramics, textiles, jewellery and home accessories by young Portuguese designers and artisans. It also hosts a programme of workshops, concerts and exhibitions.

MUD Store, Rua de Sousa Viterbo 99, Baixa

Founded by João Baptista, MUD (Manufacture Under Design) started life making high-end wooden bicycles. It’s since branched out with a collection of furniture, lamps, bags and other accessories, all handcrafted in Portugal using sustainable timber, cork and leather and presented at its small but beautiful city-centre store and workshop.

Getting tO PORTO & getting around:

Porto’s Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport is served by direct flights from all over Europe (if you’re coming from further afield you might need to change at a larger hub such as London, Lisbon, Amsterdam or Frankfurt). From there, you can get the metro straight into the city centre. The metro also makes it easy to zip around Porto during your stay, though it’s a fairly compact place and most sights are walkable. In addition, there’s a handy funicular from the base of the Ponte Dom Luís 1 in Ribeira to Batalha (near the cathedral) and, on the other side of the river, a cable car from the top of the bridge down to the quayside at Vila Nova de Gaia. Both cut out steep walks and offer fantastic views.

Parking and traffic are tricky in Porto, so I wouldn’t recommend bringing a car. On my most recent visit, we left our road-trip hire car at the airport and travelled into the city from there.

Please note this post contains affiliate links (all clearly marked), which means I will receive a small commission on any resulting bookings. You won’t pay any more by clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly, and it helps to support the free content I create here.

Exmo. Hotel, Mouco Hotel, Na Travessa Suítes, Flattered to be in Porto, Época, Tia Tia, LOT, The Fleeting Room, MUD Store and the second of the Cantinho do Avillez images courtesy of the respective venues; second port tasting image courtesy of Espaço Porto Cruz; second Foz do Douro image by Parker Hilton; Casa da Música image by Max Tarkhov; first Museu Serralves image by Ayrton and fourth by Rui Alves. All other photography by Abi Dare.