An autumn break in Herefordshire

[Advertisement – this post is based on a press trip, but all words and opinions are my own]

Earlier this month, Chris and I headed to Herefordshire for a much-needed break. We’d booked a cabin ages ago and were both looking forward to a relaxing week of lazy starts, long country walks and cosy fireside dinners. But then Visit Herefordshire got in touch to ask if they could suggest a few activities to help us explore everything the county has to offer, and we jumped at the chance.

We quickly fell in love with this beautiful corner of the UK. Situated in western England, along the border with Wales, Herefordshire is a rural county of meandering rivers, rolling orchards, pretty towns and villages, dramatic castles, ancient woodland and velvety green fields. Throughout our stay we were treated to stunning views and magical autumn light, as well as delicious food and drink from some of the area’s many artisan producers. We soon began wondering why it had taken us so long to explore somewhere that’s only just over an hour north of our home in Bristol, and we’re already plotting a return visit – perhaps next time in winter, when we hope to be greeted by sparkling frosts and the scent of woodsmoke drifting through the air.

I’ll have a full review of our accommodation next week, but first I want to round up just some of the many attractions that make Herefordshire so special…

The black and white villages

Herefordshire is famous for its ‘black and white villages’ – clusters of charmingly crooked timbered and half-timbered buildings, many of which date from medieval times. A 40-mile circular driving / cycling trail takes in some of the most picturesque (signposts mark the way, or you can download a map here), starting and ending in the market town of Leominster – itself worth a visit, especially if you like browsing antique shops. My favourites were Weobley, which has a quiet, laid-back feel; and Eardisland, which sits on the willow-lined River Arrow and is home to a village shop in a converted dovecote. We also stopped at pretty little Pembridge, where there are cafes, pubs and an art gallery in a former chapel, and the majestic ‘Great Oak of Eardisley’, estimated to be at least 900 years old and quite a sight to behold.

Orchards, apples and cider

Another thing the county is renowned for is its apple orchards – there are more than 15,000 acres of them, and the countryside is dotted with cider producers. You can visit many of them – and enjoy other apple-related delights such as pick-your-own sessions and apple-themed afternoon teas – by following Visit Herefordshire’s self-guided ‘Cider Circuits’. There are two, one taking in the southern part of the county and one the north, and you don’t have to be a cider fan to find something to tempt. We didn’t have time to do a full circuit but we got a taster of what’s on offer at award-winning Gwatkin, a family-run business that grows more than 70 different varieties of apple and pear. We had a fascinating tour of the orchard itself, before sampling a couple of its 35 ciders and perries in the on-site farm shop (I couldn’t resist buying a bottle of the pear-infused gin to take away with me – delicious with cucumber and tonic!). We also got to meet Calamity, the friendly and very inquisitive resident Hereford calf, who was orphaned at birth and is now being hand-reared.

The Golden Valley

Snaking around the River Dore in the far west of Herefordshire, the Golden Valley has an enchanted, time-forgotten feel – in fact it’s said to have inspired C.S. Lewis’ The Chronicles of Narnia. Its name seems particularly apt in autumn, when colourful trees stud the landscape, but it’s actually the result of the invading Normans mistaking ‘Dore’ (which comes from the Welsh word for ‘water’, dwr) for the French d’or (‘gold’). We spent a lazy day winding along its peaceful lanes without much of an agenda, happening upon tiny villages, lush green panoramas and remnants of the area’s long history. Highlights included Arthur’s Stone – a 5,000-year-old Neolithic burial chamber perched on top of a hill, and the eerily beautiful ruins of Longtown Castle, which once defended the borderlands from Welsh raiders. Both are managed by English Heritage and open daily from dawn to dusk. There’s no entry fee, but be aware that parking around them is limited.

Baileys Home Store

Housed in a series of converted barns just outside Ross on Wye, Baileys is the creation of Mark and Sally Bailey and a must for anyone with a love of simple, functional and beautifully crafted things for the home. There are ceramics, candles, textiles, kitchenware, baskets, plants, furniture, books, stationery and more, all arranged into imaginative seasonal displays (during our visit, woven raffia pumpkins were dangling from the rafters). It’s rustic but far from twee, and you might even meet Lily the shop cat as you browse. Be warned: you could easily spend hours (and a lot of money!) here…

Hergest Croft Gardens

Set on the edge of the market town of Kington, Hergest Croft Gardens (open daily from March to November, or accessible year-round with a season ticket) are the work of the Banks family, who over four generations have collected more than 5,000 plants, trees and shrubs. It’s a wonderful place to wander and worth at least half a day of your time – it’s also a great spot for a picnic. My favourite part was Park Wood – a secluded valley which lies beyond the formal gardens, on the other side of a hidden gate. It’s a tangle of towering trees, rhododendrons and colourful Japanese maple, with a mirror-still pool at its heart, and it feels like a lost world – the kind of place where you can happily lose yourself and forget about real life for a couple of hours.

Hergest Ridge

Looming above Hergest Croft Gardens is Hergest Ridge – an elongated, bracken-covered hill which straddles the border between England and Wales. Just continue along the lane from the gardens until you come to the end, park up on the side of the road, and head on foot through the gate onto the Offa’s Dyke Path. From there it’s a gentle but continuous climb, and you’ll be rewarded with vast skies, sweeping views in every direction, and perhaps even a sighting of the wild ponies who roam the slopes.

We’d planned to walk as far as a circle of monkey puzzle trees huddled rather inexplicably at the top of the ridge, but feeling disappointed at not yet having spotted any ponies, we decided to press further on. I’m so glad we did. A couple of hundred metres along the path, we heard a faint snort coming from the undergrowth. Then a head popped up from the bracken, followed by another and another and another. There were seven ponies in total, including two foals – some nibbling on the ferns, others enjoying a nap in the late-afternoon sun – and we managed to get fairly close without startling them. Encountering these gentle, soulful creatures was an unforgettable moment, and a real highlight of the trip.

Hereford

We couldn’t visit Herefordshire without spending some time exploring Hereford itself – a pretty little city on the banks of the River Wye, with cobbled lanes and a host of independent shops and eateries. We started at the cathedral, which is breathtakingly beautiful and home to two fascinating bits of history – the Mappa Mundi and the Chained Library. The former is the largest medieval map of the world (or at least the world known to the people who created it) in existence, and the detail it depicts is incredible. The Chained Library, meanwhile, houses row upon row of centuries-old books in their 17th-century security chains and looks like something out of a Harry Potter novel. Both are well worth seeing, and there’s a well-curated exhibition telling the stories behind them.

After our visit to the cathedral, we took a gentle stroll along the river, before heading to Sensory & Rye for lunch. Housed in a former butcher’s shop, with the original tiles still on the walls, it serves creative dishes brimming with seasonal produce and imaginative flavours, as well as artisan coffees and a tempting array of cakes. Our huevos rancheros and loaded halloumi flatbreads were delicious, and I loved the slightly scruffy decor with its textures and patinas. It’s a gem of a place, and perfect for a relaxed drink or meal.

Check back next week for more from our trip. In the meantime, you’ll find lots of information on holidays and days out in the area on Visit Herefordshire’s website. 

All photography by Abi Dare