I love Lisbon: tumbling down seven hillsides towards the shimmering River Tagus, it's at once charmingly old-fashioned and highly modern, beautifully ornate and appealingly shabby. Sleek shops sit next to crumbling mansions, cutting-edge restaurants by tatty neighbourhood cafés, and rickety yellow trams rattle along the cobbled streets much like they have done since the 1900s. . . .