A cosy stay at Cynefin Retreats, Herefordshire

Last week I shared a few tips on what to see and do in the beautiful county of Herefordshire, so for the second post from our recent trip I thought I’d put together a review of where we stayed: Cynefin Retreats. I know it seems a little odd to be publishing this just as travel restrictions are reintroduced across England, but I decided to go ahead anyway – partly because I think we could all use a bit of escapism right now, and partly because small businesses such as this really do need our support.

The creation of father-and-daughter team Steve and Lorna, Cynefin Retreats is a collection of wooden pods hidden on a patch of private woodland just outside Hay on Wye. It’s officially in England but very close to the border with Wales, so it makes a great base for exploring not only Herefordshire in one direction but also the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains in the other. ‘Cynefin’ is a Welsh word with no direct English translation, but its rough meaning is ‘rooted in place, somewhere we instinctively belong’. It’s certainly a fitting name: there’s something captivating about the setting, with its long views and secluded feel, and we felt ourselves begin to unwind and breathe a little more deeply from the moment we arrived.

There are four pods, clustered together under towering Corsican pines but each facing in a different direction to ensure privacy. They’re made from local red cedar so that they merge into the surrounding landscape, and their distinctive curved shape adds a contemporary edge. Apart from subtle variations in colour scheme (ours, Hazel, was decorated in calming greys and blues), they all have the same set-up inside: an open-plan living area with a sofa and wood-burner, a kitchen and dining table, a double bedroom, and a bathroom with a walk-in rain shower. Floor-to-ceiling glass means you can soak up the views from every corner, and the fronts slide open for easy access onto the canopied deck. There’s also a utility room with a separate entrance, where you can leave muddy boots and wellies.

I loved the simple, understated decor, and the way the back wall of the pod arched over to form the ceiling – it felt as if it was wrapping itself around us, and the half-height timber panelling added a lovely rustic touch. What’s more, the whole place was incredibly comfy – the bed cocooning, the sofa sink-into squishy – and the kitchen was equipped with everything we needed and more. There’s underfloor heating if you want it, but we found the morning sun warmed things up for the rest of the day and so it wasn’t really needed.

We were treated to crisp, clear weather for most of our stay and slept with the curtains open so we could take in the ever-changing panorama outside. Watching the first rays of sunshine pop up from behind the hills while still snuggled under the duvet was a perfect way to start the day, and we relished being able to pad straight out onto the deck with steaming cups of coffee as the countryside sprang to life around us.

We also got in the habit of heading off for a daily stroll through the woodland, which is dotted with willow boughs and provides habitats for bats, birds, hedgehogs, toads and newts. It was fascinating to see the seasons change around us: even in the week we spent at Cynefin, we witnessed the leaves turn from brown-tinged to full-on gold, and spotted mushrooms sprouting from the earth where the day before there had been none.

Evenings were largely spent outside, bubbling away in the hot tub (a stylish tan-leather affair) with a glass of fizz in hand, before huddling around the firepit as owls hooted from the branches high above. But the biggest treat was the spectacular night sky. The low level of light pollution means Cynefin is perfect for star-gazing (in fact the nearby Brecon Beacons National Park is one of only a handful of recognised ‘dark sky’ reserves worldwide), and the inky expanse above us looked as if it had been splattered with silver. I haven’t seen anything like it anywhere else on my travels, and it’s something I’ll remember forever.

On our last evening the weather turned, and so we hunkered in front of the wood-burner with board games and wine, listening to the rain drops on the glass. It was a wonderfully cosy end to our stay, and it made packing up to head back to city life all the more difficult come morning.

In short, Cynefin really is a magical place and definitely somewhere I’d recommend for a UK break. We left feeling relaxed and refreshed, and we certainly won’t hesitate to return as soon as the situation allows.

Find out more about Cynefin Retreats and make a booking here. Rates start at £170 per night, based on two people sharing. Each pod also has space for one child under 10 or a baby, and dogs are welcome in two of them. 

Please note that although my previous post from Herefordshire was based on activities arranged by the local tourist board and is therefore labelled ‘advertisement’, we booked our stay at Cynefin Retreats ourselves and paid in full. 

All photography by Abi Dare