[Advertisement – this post is based on a press trip, but all words and opinions are my own]
I’ve spoken before about my love of travelling to cold destinations, and Lapland – the remote, sparsely populated region that stretches across northern Finland – has always held near-mystical appeal. I’ve long dreamt of visiting in winter to experience its silent, snow-covered wilderness, where reindeer roam and the Northern Lights dance across the vast night sky; I’d also like to learn more about the culture of the indigenous Sámi people. So, when I was invited to join a small group of journalists heading there last month to check out newly opened Design Hotel Levi, I jumped at the chance.
I’ll talk more about the area, its attractions and why it speaks to my soul in a separate post, but first I want to introduce you to the hotel itself. Part of the wider Levi Resort & Spa, it sits in the town of Levi, 170km into the Arctic Circle and the furthest north I’ve ever travelled. The location is ideal for exploring, with unspoilt fells and forests stretching out in every direction and all sorts of activities available nearby. Levi is also famous for its downhill skiing, and there are 43 different pistes for those who fancy hitting the slopes during their stay. What’s more, it’s only a 10-minute drive from Kittilä, whose airport has regular domestic and international links, and around two hours from the regional capital of Rovaniemi, which is served by a wider range of flights (including direct easyJet and Norwegian routes from London Gatwick) plus overnight sleeper trains from Helsinki.
As you’d expect from the name, the hotel’s design is a key part of its appeal, and I was taken with it from the moment we arrived – it’s sleek and very stylish, but also deeply rooted in its setting. The building is the work of Finland-based PAVE Architects, who took inspiration from the natural world and mixed clean, contemporary lines with plenty of local materials. The hipped roof echoes the shape of nearby peaks, and the exterior is clad in silvery pinewood that will blend into the surroundings as it ages. There are also windows and balconies that jut out like boulders, with different colours illuminating their frames at different times of day to reflect Lapland’s ever-shifting light. Inside, the layout plays on space, light and shadow, with corridors that meander along like streams, and swathes of dark wood and stone interspersed with floor-to-ceiling glass that reveals tantalising glimpses of the sparkling, white-blanketed world outside.
Another integral feature of the hotel is its commitment to showcasing local artists, whose work is on display throughout. The first thing you see when you enter the lobby are the unfurling wings of a giant bird, forged from blackened metal by renowned sculptor and blacksmith Risto Immonen; beyond, in the reception area and restaurants, are eye-catching sculptures by Essi Korva, who explores childhood fears and dreams by embellishing otherworldly figures with shells, leaves and bark. My favourites, though, were created by photographer Kaisa Sirén, who we were lucky enough to meet at her Rovaniemi gallery before travelling on to Levi. She uses a technique called ICM (‘Intentional Camera Movement’), which involves deliberately shaking the camera to produce beautifully abstract images that look almost like paintings. I love the way she captures the light and colours of Lapland’s different seasons and I could have spent hours gazing at her work, which adorns corridors, landings and even the frosted glass walls enclosing the ensuites in the bedrooms.
Speaking of bedrooms, there are 77 in total, all created by interior designer Tuula Ylinenpää. She too took her cue from Lapland’s nature, blending a smart monochrome colour palette with carpet that mimics lichen-covered heathland and headboards fashioned from weathered pine. She also chose pieces by Finnish designers, including blown-glass chandeliers by Katriina Nuutinen, woven bed covers by Johanna Gullichsen, and furniture by the likes of Harri Koskinen, Timo Ripatti, Nikari and Hakola.
Room categories include ‘Deluxe Lofts’ with extra beds on mezzanine levels, as well as suites with separate living rooms and private saunas, but even the standard ‘Deluxe Doubles’ are a good size. I stayed in one of the latter and had plenty of space to spread out, with a sofa looking out over snow-dusted trees, plus a cupboard and copper clothes rail for storing belongings. I had a minor niggle with the wetroom-style bathroom, as water from the shower escaped beneath the door and soaked the rug in the entranceway, but otherwise I was very happy – and I slept like a log in the kingsize bed, which is one of the most comfortable I’ve come across to date! There were also plenty of little treats, including a coffee maker, Rituals toiletries, snuggly Missoni robes and slippers, and a box of chocolates waiting for me on arrival.
There’s plenty of choice when it comes to food, as Design Hotel guests can dine in any of Levi Resort & Spa’s three restaurants. Most memorable for me was Kekäle, which serves up gourmet dishes cooked on an open charcoal grill. The decor is smart, the atmosphere relaxed, and the menu focuses on seasonal Finnish produce. Everything I sampled was delicious, especially the scallop and fennel starter and the smoky chicken and mushroom main, and I loved hearing the embers crackle away as we ate. I was also very impressed with Classic Pizza – a northern outpost of a family-run pizzeria founded in Finland’s southernmost town of Hanko back in 1996. It’s laid-back and intimate, with dark walls, cosy lighting and clusters of armchairs where you could happily linger for hours. The pizzas are excellent, too – perfectly thin and crispy, with unusual toppings such as blue cheese, beetroot and sesame. The third option is buffet restaurant Ahku, which has more of a canteen feel. It gets busy as it’s where visiting tour groups dine, but the food – a mix of salads, soups and hearty stews – is very tasty, and it’s ideal for grabbing a quick bite between activities.
Hotel guests also get access to the resort’s spa, which has indoor and outdoor pools, Jacuzzis, saunas and a water slide. It’s popular with families and it’s more like a public swimming pool than a spa in the normal sense; there’s also, rather oddly, a Burger King branch in the entrance! But it’s fun to visit, and few things beat bubbling away in an alfresco hot tub as snow falls around you.
So, would I recommend Design Hotel Levi? Most definitely. It’s always refreshing to come across contemporary design with a strong sense of place, and the links to local artists make it particularly special. It’s also very comfortable, and there’s something wonderful about returning to style and warmth after a day of wintry adventures – more on those to follow later in the week…
To book a stay at Design Hotel Levi, visit designhotellevi.fi or call +358 16 646 200. Rates start at €290 per night, based on two people sharing a double room on a bed and breakfast basis.
Images one, nine and 12-21 by Abi Dare; other photography via Design Hotel Levi.
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