I’ve always found spending time in nature to be a powerful antidote to stress and anxiety. I can fully understand why the Japanese concept of forest bathing has spread around the world in recent years, and whenever I feel overwhelmed the urge to swap city bustle for tranquil woodland is strong. So, a stay among the canopy at Cuckoo’s Hideaway, a luxurious self-catering treehouse a few miles inland from Cardigan Bay in Ceredigion, Wales, was just what Chris and I needed after a busy start to autumn.
A getaway in Wales wasn’t actually part of our plans for September, as we supposed to be heading to Spain to visit friends. But things changed once Loki the cat was diagnosed with diabetes and started twice-daily insulin injections. We didn’t feel comfortable leaving him with family or a pet-sitter for so long while his condition stabilised, so a week in the sun was swapped for a short break somewhere closer to home. Luckily I happened to stumble across Cuckoo’s Hideaway online and saw it had last-minute availably for a couple of nights. It might not have been what we’d originally envisaged, but we were grateful for any time away – and what a wonderful time it turned out to be.
Located in a patch of woodland on the edge of owners Lowri and Alun’s family farm, Cuckoo’s Hideaway is serene, secluded and utterly magical. The couple designed and built it themselves, fulfilling a long-held ambition of creating a treehouse retreat that would enable others to experience the setting they’re lucky enough to call home, and the result combines child-like excitement with serious comfort. Outside, there’s a split-level deck with lounge chairs, a bar table, a hot tub and views through the branches to the distant sea; inside, a double bedroom, a bathroom with a rain shower, an open-plan living area with a kitchenette, and a ladder up to a reading nook hidden in the eaves. It’s small but beautifully done, with a very clever layout and decor that perfectly balances rustic charm with pared-back simplicity. I particularly loved the way sleek black panelling is offset by swathes of exposed timber, and the whole place is cosy, cocooning and full of texture.
After a long but scenic drive across the Welsh hills, we arrived just as the sun was sinking below the trees, casting dappled rose-gold light all around. Keen to make the most of it, we made a beeline for the hot tub and spent a very happy hour bubbling away with some Prosecco, before heading back inside for pizza and a blissfully quiet night’s sleep.
As we only had one full day at Cuckoo’s Hideaway, we decided to stay put and make the most of it, rather than venture out and about. With no alarm clock and no traffic noise to disturb us, we slept until 10am and then lounged in bed with coffee. That was followed by breakfast on the deck, then a lazy afternoon alternating between board games (there are several to choose from) and snuggling on the sofa with our books. For much of the time we found ourselves transfixed on the view through the floor-to-ceiling windows, watching squirrels scurrying along the branches, inquisitive sheep peering over the fence, and birds of prey silently scanning the surrounding fields for their next meal.
Our second evening again involved unwinding in the hot tub – this time at dusk, as bats fluttered around overhead, and once more after dinner, when a splattering of stars had appeared in the inky night sky. The gentle hooting of a nearby owl provided a very soothing soundtrack, and any lingering worries over vets’ bills and work deadlines soon melted away.
Our final morning started much like the first, but after checking out of Cuckoo’s Hideaway we decided to explore a bit of the coast before heading back to Bristol. Cardigan Bay is known for its marine life, and the opportunity to see wild bottlenose dolphins and seals on a boat trip from the nearby harbour village of New Quay was too good to miss. A quick bit of Google research led us to a responsible operator that’s accredited by the Sea Watch Foundation, and we were glad to see they had two spaces left on an hour-long cruise that morning.
Almost as soon as we left the harbour, we spotted a dorsal fin emerge from the water, followed by a nose and a tail. Then, around a craggy headland, we came across two grey seals basking on the rocks, a tiny seal pup resting in a cove nearby, and another dolphin bobbing around in the waves a little way out to sea. The rocking of the boat made taking photographs tricky so you’ll largely have to take my word for it, but it was an amazing sight – well worth the slight nausea caused by the Atlantic swell, and the perfect end to our short but very sweet time in Ceredigion.
Book a stay at Cuckoo’s Hideaway via Canopy & Stars, and find it on Instagram here. Rates start at £225 per night.
Images two and 14 via Cuckoo’s Hideaway; all other photography by Abi Dare
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