A spring minibreak on the North Norfolk Coast

Sadly, my planned March trip to the Norwegian Arctic didn’t happen, as I came down with flu and was too ill to travel. But once I recovered I did have a small consolation prize in the form of an impromptu minibreak on the beautiful North Norfolk Coast in eastern England.

Stretching for more than 45 miles, the North Norfolk Coast is a land of salt marshes, sand dunes, sweeping beaches and big skies. Much of it is now covered by protected nature reserves that are home to all sorts of birds and marine life, including common and grey seals. It’s an area Chris and I have loved ever since we first visited 10 years ago, so when I had to travel there for work he decided to join me and we tagged on an additional night’s stay.

Our base was Cley next the Sea, one of several medieval harbour villages strung along the River Glaven. It’s an idyllic place for an escape, whether you have two weeks, two days or, like us, only 24 hours to spare. Here’s what we got up to, along with my top tips for the local area.

Cley Windmill & Cley Quay

We arrived in Cley next the Sea early in the evening, dodging the crossings set up for the annual spring migration of the area’s endangered toads as we wound along the coastal road. We’d booked into the 18th-century Cley Windmill [AD – affiliate link], which is now run as a B&B. It sits right on the village’s quayside – once one of the busiest ports in England, trading as far afield as the Low Countries and the Mediterranean, but left stranded almost a mile inland after the Glaven estuary gradually silted up. Shipping ceased by the late 19th century, and the customs house closed in 1853, but traces of its maritime past remain – and, thanks to a restoration project that opened up a narrow channel, it’s now once again accessible to boats.

As soon as we’d checked into our room, we headed straight back out for a wander along the boardwalks, enjoying the gorgeous light as it slowly shifted from gold to rose-pink to purple. It was incredibly peaceful, the only sounds being lapping water, the rustle of the breeze in the reeds and the occasional honking from geese flapping overhead (although it’s worth noting that Cley is sometimes subject to noise from low-flying planes thanks to the American air bases in nearby Suffolk).

Once darkness descended, we headed back to the windmill for a relaxing evening of drinks, dinner and reading. It’s a little more traditional in terms of decor than my usual taste, but I’d certainly recommend it – it’s comfortable and characterful, the staff are wonderful, and the location is hard to beat. What’s more, the food is delicious – in our case, canapés in the lounge followed by a three-course menu of watercress soup, salmon in a lemon sauce and strawberry pavlova.

Cley Marshes & Cley beach

After breakfast the next morning, we headed out to explore Cley Marshes, one of the oldest and most beautiful of the area’s many nature reserves. Spreading out between the village and the sea, it covers 300 hectares of reedbeds, marshland, pools and meadows, all alive with birds, invertebrates and voles.

We followed this 3-mile circular walk, which takes you out to the shingle Cley Beach and along the shoreline before heading back inland. You can start at the quayside or the Cley Marshes Visitor Centre, both of which of have car parks if you’re not staying nearby; the latter also has a cafe and a terrace with panoramic views. Along the way we saw marsh harriers swooping overhead, little egrets standing statue-like at the water’s edge, and swans pootling along the channels. And we spent a good half hour just sitting on the beach, breathing in the sea air and watching waves crash onto the pebbles.

Cley village & shops

The rest of our time in Cley next the Sea was spent exploring the village itself. It’s a lovely place to stroll around, with quiet streets, winding lanes and, during our visit, trees and hedgerows bursting with spring blossom. Most of the buildings date from the 1600s as a fire in 1612 destroyed the earlier structures, and they’re constructed from the local flint. Many have Flemmish-style gables and impressive windows – evidence of Cley’s past links with the Low Countries and the wealth generated during its trading heyday.

There are a few shops and galleries to pop into, too. My favourite is Made in Cley – a workshop and gallery shared between 10 different people, and a wonderful place to buy beautiful vases, jewellery, sculptures and tableware. Also worth a browse is Pinkfoot Gallery, which showcases the work of local artists, and Crabpot Books. And if you want to pick up a picnic, some self-catering supplies or some tasty treats to take home, there’s the Picnic Fayre deli and Cley Smokehouse.

More things to see & do on the North Norfolk Coast

If you have longer to spend in Cley next the Sea than we did this time around, here are some suggestions for more things to see and do in the local area:

• Take a boat trip from Mortson Quay to Blakeney Point, which is home to England’s largest grey seal colony. There are several operators and times vary according to the tide – find details here.
• You can also walk from Cley to Blakeney Point. It’s a beautiful 4-mile ramble along the beach and sand dunes, but note that outside breeding and pupping season (late October to mid-January), you won’t be able to see the seals on foot.
• Drive 10 minutes up the road to the nearby market town of Holt, where you’ll find all manner of independent shops. My favourites are craft collective Make Holt, high-end food hall Bakers & Larners and Norfolk Natural Living, which sells home fragrance, bodycare and cleaning products made from natural ingredients.
• Half an hour’s drive further along the coast is Burnham Market, another very pretty town that’s brimming with delis, galleries and boutiques. The Hoste Arms is a great place to eat.
• Also in that direction is Holkham Bay, a vast stretch of golden sand backed by yet another nature reserve. Nearby, you’ll find the walled gardens, neo-Palladian mansion, cycle trails and deer park of Holkham Hall.

Other places to stay on the North Norfolk Coast

In Cley next the Sea itself, village pub The George & Dragon has several boutique rooms done up in an understated country style. If you prefer self-catering, I can highly recommend Cartshed Cottages and Blackwood Norfolk, both of which I’ve stayed at myself and which are located a short drive away. Cartshed Cottages consists of five separate rustic-minimalist boltholes sleeping two-four, set in the grounds of Jacobean manor Sharrington Hall and given wonderfully evocative names such as Seal, Samphire, Shell and Sky. Blackwood Norfolk, meanwhile, is a contemporary timber-clad cabin hidden in National Trust woodland near the village of West Runton, with stunning interiors and space for up to six people.

Please note this post contains affiliate links (all clearly marked), which means I will receive a small commission on any resulting bookings. You won’t pay any more by clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly, and it helps to support the free content I create here.

All photography by Abi Dare