Minimalist design in a historic setting – Casa Grande Hotel in La Rioja, Spain

I’ve already shared a guide to visiting La Rioja – the second stage of my recent 12-day road trip around northern Spain with my friend Becky – but I loved one of the two Rioja hotels that we stayed at so much that I couldn’t resist giving it a post of its own. It’s called Casa Grande Hotel, and it’s perfect for anyone who likes great design, great food and great hospitality.

I’m always drawn to spaces that blend modern minimalism with period features and a strong sense of place, and Casa Grande does this beautifully. Set opposite the church in the tiny village of Grañón, it occupies an early 18th-century manor house that was rescued from abandon by Mònica and Raúl, who moved to La Rioja from Catalonia in 2019 in search of a slower pace of life. Keen to transform it into a stylish haven while preserving as much of its character as possible, they turned to Barcelona-based architecture and interior-design studio Francesc Rifé for help. The result is a wonderful fusion of old and new, both inside and out.

The building’s exterior now blends the original ashlar masonry with sleek black-iron cladding, which wraps around the lower section and merges into a huge pivoting gate that leads to the hotel’s terrace. The same material has been used for the window frames, shutters and balconies, as well as a small double-height extension at the rear, and it sets up a striking contrast with the rustic honey-hued stone.

Stepping into the entrance hall, you’re greeted by a time-worn cobbled floor and a sleek black reception desk. Glass doors on either side lead to two communal lounges, both decorated in muted tones and furnished with pared-back pieces from Spain and Scandinavia (among others I spotted floor lamps from Barcelona brands GOFI and Santa & Cole, Hans J. Wegner’s ‘CH44’ lounge chair for Carl Hansen & Søn, and ‘DLM’ side tables from HAY). Beyond these are the restaurant and bar, where understated metal-legged ‘Fosca’ chairs designed by Francesc Rifé himself sit alongside swathes of black-poplar panelling that echoes the cladding outside.

Black poplar also features on custom headboards, wardrobes and cabinetry in the 11 bedrooms, which are spread over the first and second floors. All have pale oak flooring, a calming neutral colour scheme and sections of exposed brick or stone, but they differ in their layout and characteristics. Some come with desks built into deep recessed windows, others sofas that can be made up as extra beds; two, a junior suite named ‘Anna’ and a premium room named ‘Mònica’, even open onto private balconies. The ensuite bathrooms, meanwhile, have smooth micro-cement walls, seamlessly integrated sinks and walk-in showers behind glass doors.

We stayed in ‘Sònia’, a loft-like superior double / twin nestled under the eaves at the very top of the hotel. I loved the cosy feel created by the sloping ceiling, and the view of the church spire through the skylight. I was also impressed by the clever use of space, with storage set into the awkward lower section, and by the way the two bedsides have been done differently – a long built-in nightstand and a conical wall lamp on one side, a low circular table and a spherical pendant light (another Rifé design, this time for MILAN Iluminación) on the other. It’s worth noting that, as in many of the rooms, the bathroom is partially open-plan, but the toilet and shower are separated off. What’s more, taller guests will have to watch out for the panel above the clothes rail, which I clipped my head on more than once.

Bumped heads aside, our entire stay was incredibly relaxing, and we spent a lot of time sitting back in the lounges with books and glasses of local wine (when in La Rioja…!). And although the weather was fairly cool, we did get one beautifully sunny afternoon when we made the most of Casa Grande’s leafy terrace, where HAY ‘Palissade’ furniture is clustered around the remains of an old well.

As for the food, it was delicious. Dinner is available every evening for guests, and we had two fantastic three-course meals. The dishes pair Riojan ingredients with influences from further afield, and highlights included roasted leeks in a blue cheese sauce, grilled aubergine with burrata, and lightly spiced salmon on a zingy salad. I also liked the restaurant’s little decor touches, such as dried grasses displayed in champagne flutes and trays of local pebbles on the tables.

Grañón itself is a sleepy kind of place, with few visitors other than pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago, which cuts straight through the centre of the village. As a result it’s blissfully peaceful, but it also makes a handy location for exploring the wider region. The bodegas of Haro, the medieval town of Laguardia, the tapas bars of Logroño and the historic monasteries of San Millán de la Cogolla are all within an easy drive, and you’ll find more info on visiting them here.

Book a stay at Casa Grande Hotel here [AD – affiliate link]. Rooms start at €125 per night, with breakfast charged extra.

Please note this post contains affiliate links (clearly marked), which means I will receive a small commission on any resulting bookings. You won’t pay any more by clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly, and it helps to support the free content I create here.

Images two, five, 12-18 and 35 by David Zarzoso, via Casa Grande Hotel; all other photography by Abi Dare