A weekend in North Cornwall with Glampingly

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For me, chances to get away are a bit like buses – none for ages, then two come along at once. That’s why, after landing back in the UK from Copenhagen last month, I found myself jumping straight in the car and heading down to Cornwall for a weekend break courtesy of Glampingly.

If you haven’t come across Glampingly before, it’s a very handy website where you can discover and book hundreds of glamping retreats in the UK, France and beyond. You can search by location, date and type of accommodation, and the comprehensive listings have all the info you need to help you find the right place for you. Chris and I had huge fun browsing through the options to work out where we’d like to stay this time around – perhaps a treehouse in Wales? Or a luxurious bell tent in Norfolk? Maybe even a converted helicopter in East Sussex? In the end we opted for East Thorne, a cluster of roundhouses and yurts hidden among rolling fields near the North Cornish coast. We know western Cornwall well, but neither of us had explored the north before and we were both keen to visit somewhere new. The prospect of having our own wood-fired outdoor hot tub – a feature of all East Thorne’s roundhouses – sealed the deal.

I’ve always been partial to glamping, as I love being able to experience the sense of adventure that camping brings without skimping on comfort. But I have to admit I started feeling a bit apprehensive about a getaway in the great outdoors as my plane descended through the clouds towards Bristol Airport, to be greeted by lashing rain and buffeting winds. Chris met me in Arrivals, and as we set off towards the motorway we found ourselves negotiating flash floods, lightning and ever-darkening skies.

I needn’t have worried, though, as the roundhouses at East Thorne are wonderfully cosy, whatever the weather. Ours, ‘Ocean’, was decorated in understated blues and greys, with a double bed beneath a soaring beamed ceiling. On one side was a sleek kitchenette kitted out with everything we could possibly need (oven, hob, fridge, kettle, pots and pans, toaster); on the other, a blanket-strewn sofa by a wood-burning stove. A door at the rear led through to an ensuite bathroom complete with a power shower, and there was also a little bunk room that would be ideal for kids.

Night had already fallen by the time we arrived, so we poured some wine, lit the stove and settled in for a relaxing evening with board games and books. It was a real treat to unwind away from traffic noise, sirens and bright city lights. The only sounds were crackling logs on the fire and the comforting patter of rain on the roof, and I soon found myself drifting off to sleep – something which regular readers will know is a rare occurrence, given my struggle with insomnia.

We awoke the next morning to discover the storm had cleared overnight, so after a lazy start sipping coffee in bed, we headed out to explore. East Thorne is within easy reach of sweeping beaches, harbour villages and more, but we made a beeline for the dramatic ruins of Tintagel Castle – somewhere I’ve wanted to visit for years. Perched on a rugged clifftop, they’ve long been associated with the legend of King Arthur, and there’s definitely a sense of magic and mystery in the air. I’ve seen photos of them on bright summer days but I loved being there in autumn, when there were few other visitors and the blustery weather only enhanced the moody atmosphere.

We spent a while exploring the castle itself, now accessed via a stunning cantilevered footbridge over the ravine that separates it from the mainland, before following twisting steps down to the cove below. Here we lingered for a while, listening to waves crashing over the rocks, watching seagulls swooping overhead, and venturing inside echoing caves before the incoming tide cut them off.

Happy but weary after a blast of fresh sea air, we returned to East Thorne to warm up in the hot tub, before heading inside for a feast of bread, cold cuts and cheese picked up at a nearby farm shop. Had we been there in balmier temperatures, we would have lit the outdoor fire pit and dined on the deck, but another evening snuggled up by the wood-burner was no less enticing.

It was a wrench to pull ourselves away from our lovely little roundhouse the next morning, but work, real life and overflowing inboxes beckoned. There was time for one final treat before heading back to Bristol, though – a wander around the tiny fishing village of Boscastle, which lies twenty minutes along the coast. Huddled around an inlet and flanked by towering cliffs, it was almost washed away by flooding in 2004 but has been completely rebuilt. It’s a beautiful place to spend a few hours, and the view from the 16th-century harbour walls made the perfect end to our trip.

It really was a wonderful weekend, and I’ve been recommending East Thorne to anyone who’ll listen ever since we got back. And I’m not the only one – it turns out a friend of mine stayed there a few months ago and loved it just as much as I did, so we’re already plotting a joint return. Hopefully it won’t be long before I’m wallowing in that hot tub once again…

The roundhouses at East Thorne are available from £189 for a minimum two-night stay, based two-four people sharing on a self-catering basis. See Glampingly for more info and to make a booking. 

All photography by Abi Dare