It seems strange to be writing about balmy days in southern Italy when I’m wrapped up in a blanket watching snowflakes swirl outside the window, but it’s time for the second instalment from our September road trip around Puglia (you can read the first one here).
From the coastal town of Monopoli, we wove inland along country roads, past olive groves dotted with the cone-shaped trulli that are so characteristic of this part of the world. Our destination was Ostuni, a walled town perched on a hilltop gazing out over the plains to the glittering sea.
As we only had one night there before heading further south, we decided to splash out on a stay at Relais La Sommita, a luxurious little hotel located at the town’s summit. There’s no car access, so we parked up on the outskirts as instructed and were met by a porter in a tuk-tuk, who sped us up the warren of steep alleyways to the door – 10 minutes of exhilarating, teeth-rattling fun that had us grinning and giggling like kids.
The hotel occupies a 16th-century palazzo and one-time monastery that’s been beautifully restored. Outside are tranquil patios shaded with citrus trees, and a sparkling Jacuzzi pool; inside it’s a calm, minimalist haven with clean-lined contemporary furniture and smooth stone floors. The 10 rooms are carved out of the old walls and all are different. Ours was spread over two levels, with a ground-floor sitting area, a mezzanine sleeping platform and a vast bathroom set beneath a cathedral-like vaulted ceiling.
As soon as we’d settled in and drained our welcome glasses of Prosecco, we headed out to explore the town. During the day it’s packed with tourists, but come evening, when the locals emerge for their passagiata and children play in the piazzas, it takes on a lovely, laid-back air. We spent a wonderful couple of hours getting lost in the maze of alleyways and steps, occasionally stumbling across gaps in the walls that yielded stunning views over the surrounding countryside.
Then it was back to the hotel for alfresco drinks under the rosy light of the setting sun, followed by a meal in its Michelin-starred restaurant, where chef Sebastiano Lombardi cooks up imaginative dishes inspired by childhood memories. We opted for one of his tasting menus and were treated to dish after dish of delicious food, including savoury cannoli filled with herby goats’ cheese, frozen spheres of Aperol spritz, succulent lamb with a sea-urchin sauce, and a chocolate-coated crema catalana disguised as an egg which you crack onto your plate.
After a perfect night’s sleep, we were woken the next morning by the soulful clanging of the cathedral bells. It was almost time to pull ourselves away from Ostuni and continue on our way, but there was time for one final indulgence before we left: a breakfast of cream-filled pastries, local cheeses and frothy cappuccinos, served on the patio as birds darted in and out of the ramparts above. Bliss.
Check back next week for the next leg of our Italian adventure…
Book a stay at Relais La Sommita via i-escape
All photography by Abi Dare
I am enjoying this series so much – thank you!
A pleasure – thanks for the kind words!