[Advertisement – this post is based on a press trip, but all words and opinions are my own]
I love winter travel – some of my favourite holidays have taken me to frozen landscapes such as Iceland and West Sweden, and I’d choose snow and ice over a tropical beach any day. That said, I’ve always shied away from booking stays in classic ski destinations. Chris can ski fairly well but I’d never tried it, and I had visions of languishing in ski school, feeling frustrated and inadequate, while he had fun on the slopes. So, when I was invited on a press trip to the French Alps earlier this month with fellow bloggers Julia and Catherine, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to find out whether it is actually possible to have a good Alpine break if you’re a first-time skier – or even if you don’t fancy skiing at all.
The trip was hosted by Alpine Escape – a collection of boutique chalets dotted around the Trois Vallées, which is the largest linked ski area in the world and encompasses famous resorts such as Courchevel and Méribel. It has a range of stylish properties sleeping up to 15 people (most with private hot tubs and crackling fires), and you can choose between catered and self-catered stays. There’s also a concierge service to arrange everything from airport transfers to ski hire, meaning you can tailor-make your perfect holiday; they can even organise childcare, spa treatments and more.
Our base was The Loft, a four-bedroom chalet in Courchevel 1650 Moriond (the second-highest of the four separate villages that make up Courchevel). Forget any notions of twee, traditional chalet decor; this place is stylish and contemporary, with pale wood-clad walls, floor-to-ceiling windows, a wraparound balcony, a sleek white kitchen and an open-plan living area decorated in muted greys and blues.
The best feature of the The Loft, though, is the panoramic view from every room. The ever-changing light and colours in the mountains are magical, and I loved watching the first rays of sunshine glint off the peaks over my morning coffee, and seeing the sky turn from blue to gold to rose-pink come evening.
First on the agenda after settling in was my first taste of skiing, thanks to a lesson with Oxygene Ski School. I was excited and nervous in equal measure, but I was reassured to learn that the Trois Vallées is a great place for beginners due to the many well-maintained green and blue runs. I had a private lesson, which is well worth the extra cost if you can manage it – you get tailored tuition to fit your pace and level of fitness, and there’s no risk of feeling embarrassed in a class full of fearless teenagers (one of my worries about ski holidays in the past). I spent a few hours on a nursery slope with patient and friendly instructor Andrea, and by the end of the session I’d learnt how to stand properly, how to slide and how to stop. I’d even started to turn, and more often than not in the direction I actually intended to go! I wouldn’t say I’m a natural on skis, but I definitely had fun and it’s something I’d like to try again (the below images clearly don’t show me, but you can see a video of my attempts on Instagram Stories if you want).
We also got to experience some of the things on offer for those who don’t want to hit the slopes. A firm favourite with everyone was a snowshoeing adventure with wonderful guide Pip, who took us into silent forests blanketed with white. Along the way she pointed out animal tracks and hoar crystals (formed when evaporating snow refreezes overnight), and gave us an insight into the delicate ecosystem of the mountains. Walking with snowshoes and poles took a bit of getting used to, but I loved soaking up the tranquility – and sliding downhill in fresh, untrodden powder was exhilarating!
Other activities included in-chalet massages with Alpine Therapies and a gentle morning yoga session with the peaks as a backdrop – ideal for soothing any aching muscles. And we were taken on a tour around the area’s pretty little villages, complete with chocolate-box wooden buildings, tiny stone churches, snow-dusted pines and the occasional inquisitive cat.
Along the way we stopped in to see some of Alpine Escape’s other chalets, all refurbished beautifully inside and out. My favourites were the moody and minimalist Chalet de Mon Père, nestled among trees in the hillside resort of La Tania, and the cosy-meets-contemporary Chalet Ellanar in the heart of picturesque Courchevel Le Praz.
Food and drink also featured heavily, and meals were an opportunity to sample the different catering options available via Alpine Escape. On two evenings, talented private chef Rich cooked up a four-course feast complete with canapés and petit-fours; on the other, we made our own fondue (heaven for a cheese addict like me!) using ingredients provided. Breakfast followed a similar formula, with help-yourself food delivered on two mornings and Rich whipping up delicious eggs Benedict on our final day. And we were treated to freshly baked cake every afternoon, along with a wine tasting from Le Verre Gourmand, who can supply Alpine Escape guests with handpicked wines from France and beyond.
There’s lots of choice when it comes to eating out in the area, too. For lunch we headed to family-run mountain restaurant Bouc Blanc (you can ski there or get the gondola up from La Tania), where we tucked into traditional tartiflette and café gourmand (espresso with a selection of pastries) alongside soaring views. We also sampled top-notch tapas and cocktails at friendly Spanish bar La Copiña in the centre of Moriond, and sipped aperitifs in the candlelit vaults of Cave des Lys in Le Praz.
So, can you have a great Alpine holiday if you haven’t skied before? The answer is a resounding yes. My first experience of the slopes was a lot less daunting and a lot more enjoyable than I’d imagined, and there’s plenty to appeal to those who don’t want to ski at all. I left Courchevel feeling relaxed and refreshed, and I’m proud of myself for trying something new. I’m already thinking about heading back with Chris for a mix of gentle skiing (I reckon I could tackle a green run after one more lesson) and relaxation. And more fondue, of course…
Thanks to Alpine Escape for a fantastic trip. See its full range of catered and self-catered chalets (all easy accessible via flights to Geneva or the Eurostar ski train to Moutiers) here.
All photography by Abi Dare
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