When I was 17 and studying A-Level Spanish (I later went on to do a university degree in it), I persuaded my parents to choose Seville for our annual family holiday. In many ways it was a disastrous trip: my mum left her purse in the back of a taxi, one of my brothers got food poisoning and our flights in both directions were delayed due to storms. But I fell in love with this seductive Andalusian . . .