Back in January I spent several days in the Netherlands on photoshoots for my book. I had no time to explore around work, but I loved the brief glimpses I got of one city – Delft – so much that I vowed to go back with Chris to see it properly. Well, a few weeks ago we did just that, and it certainly lived up to my expectations.
Known for its blue and white pottery and Dutch Master painters, Delft makes a wonderful city break for several reasons. It has the picture-postcard canals, bridges and townhouses of Amsterdam (if anything, it’s prettier), but it’s smaller, quieter and much more relaxed. It’s compact enough to navigate on foot and has plenty to keep you occupied for a few days without feeling like you need to rush from sight to sight, leaving lots of leeway for lazy coffees and lingering meals. It’s also home to some top-notch restaurants and a very stylish design-led hotel, and it can easily be combined with visits to The Hague just to the north and Rotterdam to the south (although we chose to take things slowly and spend all our time in Delft).
Last time I was there, the temperature was well below freezing, there were snow flurries in the air and the canals were partially iced over; this time we visited in late October, when we were treated to autumn foliage and gorgeous golden light. But I can imagine it’s equally lovely in spring and summer, and I thought it looked appealing even in the depths of winter!
Here are my top tips on where to stay, eat and drink, what to see and do and where to shop in this beautiful Dutch city…
Where to stay in Delft:
Hotel Arsenaal, Korte Geer 1, 2611 CA Delft
Housed in the city’s former armoury on the Oude Delft canal, Hotel Arsenaal was the base for both my trips to Delft. The 17th-century building has been beautifully and sensitively converted, with modern minimalist design alongside exposed brick walls, lofty beamed ceilings and spiral staircases. Many of the rooms overlook the water, as does the ground-floor lounge and bar, where you can tuck into cheese and charcuterie plates, enjoy a delicious afternoon tea (see below) or just sit back with a glass of wine and watch ducks, moorhens and boats drift slowly by. There are suites with freestanding bathtubs, but even the standard Comfort Rooms have little sitting areas and plenty of character. I particularly liked the Delftware ceramics, which form a running thread; there are even jars of broken pottery arranged artfully on shelves and tables, and Delftware patterns on the rugs and water bottles. It’s fun and gives the hotel a sense of place, without being tacky or overdone.
[AD – affiliate link]
Where to eat & drink in Delft:
De Centrale, Voldersgracht 2, 2611 ET Delft
Set in the 17th-century former meat market of De Koornbeurs, De Centrale serves up high-end seasonal dishes that draw on influences from all over Europe. There are four-, five-, six- and seven-course tasting menus (all reasonably priced considering the quality of the food), and the setting is beautiful – minimalist yet cosy and convivial. There are also optional wine pairings encompassing vintages from little-known vineyards that you won’t find elsewhere, and the staff really know their stuff. Our dinner here was one of the best meals we’ve had in a while, and worth every Euro!
Open Sunday-Thursday from 6pm-11pm, and Friday and Saturday from 5.30pm-midnight
La Tasca, Voldersgracht 13 & 14, 2611 ET Delft
Located on the same street as De Centrale, La Tasca brings together various Mediterranean cuisines into elegant dishes. The set-price dinner menu is great value, with vegetarian, fish and meat options for each course, and everything we had (pumpkin soup, pasta with ossobuco and a saffron broth, entrecôte steak) was delicious. I loved the decor, too – understated and timeless, with Thonet chairs, metal wall lamps, antique wooden tables and cushioned olive-green banquettes.
Open Monday-Saturday from 6pm-10pm; closed on Sunday
Lakila, Vrouwenregt 15, 2611 KK Delft
This little wine and tapas bar makes a great place for aperitifs and informal meals. Tables spill out onto the cobbled pavement, or you can pull up a stool at the counter inside. The menu consists of seasonal small plates, with influences from all over the Mediterranean – expect the likes of burrata with fennel and orange, Spanish salt-cod croquettes, saffron arancini, and pitta served with dukkah and labneh.
Open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday from 4pm until late, and Saturday and Sunday from 12 noon until late; closed on Tuesday
Kek, Voldersgracht 272611 EV, Delft
This buzzing cafe serves up brunch, lunch, coffee, cakes and freshly made juices in a laid-back setting with gently quirky decor. The menu encompasses sandwiches, smoothie bowls, pancakes, salads and more, with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options – we had sweet-potato waffles with eggs and avocado, followed by matcha latte and fudge cake. There’s also a shop counter at the front selling fresh fruit and veg.
Open Wednesday-Monday 8.30am-4.30pm; closed on Tuesday
De Delf, Oude Delft 113, 2611 BE Delft
We didn’t sample the food at this bar-restaurant on the Oude Delft canal, and to be honest the interior looked nothing special, but the bench seats outside proved the perfect spot for waterside evening drinks – in fact we ended up returning several times! Blankets, fairylights and flickering lanterns make it wonderfully cosy, and few things beat sitting back with a Delft gin & tonic (here served with lime and fresh ginger) as boats pootle past.
Open Wednesday-Friday from 4pm-10pm, Saturday from 12pm-10pm and Sunday from 5pm-10pm; closed on Monday and Tuesday
Stads-Koffyhuis, Oude Delft 133, 2611 BE Delft
Also on the Oude Delft canal, with tables inside and out, is this blue-fronted cafe. Apparently it used to have some seating on a boat moored at the front – that’s now gone, but we still enjoyed lingering over flat whites and cakes right by the water. If you want something more substantial, there’s a lunch menu of sandwiches, burgers, soups and salads, plus sweet and savoury pancakes made using flour from Molen de Roos, Delft’s only remaining windmill.
Open Monday-Friday 9am-7pm, Saturday 9am-6pm and Sunday 10am-5pm
Chocolaterie De Lelie, Voorstraat 10, 2611 JP Delft
The takeaway ice creams from this chocolate shop and gelateria are hard to beat. There’s a huge range of flavours, from classics like pistachio to more unusual combinations such as white chocolate and orange blossom or mandarin and five-spice. There are also some uniquely Dutch options like spekkoek (a type of layer cake) and bitterkoekjes (chewy almond cookies).
Open Monday-Friday 10am-6pm and Saturday 10am-5pm; closed on Sunday
Gaia, Doelenplein 11, 2611 BP Delft
Gaia is one of those wonderful places that’s whatever you need it to be, at any time of day: breakfast or brunch spot, lunch or dinner venue, evening bar… It sits on a tree-shaded, fairylight-strung square with alfresco seating; inside there are leather sofas, dark wooden tables, a stunning green-tiled bar lit by sculptural spheres, and leafy plants dotted here and there. The menu is wide-ranging, spanning everything from hamburgers to beef tataki salad to tagliatelle with burrata, and there’s a comprehensive wine and cocktail list.
Open daily from 9am until late
Ramen NIKKOU, Oosteinde 199, 2611 VE Delft
As the name suggests, this restaurant specialises in one thing: authentic Japanese ramen, cooked by a chef from Kyoto. It’s tiny and doesn’t take reservations so you might have a bit of a wait for a table, but it’s worth it for the steaming bowls of delicious goodness. There are meat, vegetarian and vegan choices, together with extras such as gyoza, pork dumplings and endamame.
Open Wednesday 5pm-9pm, and Thursday-Saturday 12pm-2pm and 5pm-9pm; closed on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday
Hotel Arsenaal, Korte Geer 1, 2611 CA Delft
Even if you’re not staying on site, I’d highly recommend booking afternoon tea in the bar of Hotel Arsenaal. Served up on Delftware, it consists of savoury and sweet rounds, with delicious sandwiches, pastries and cakes, plus unexpected treats such as beef carpaccio and cheese croquettes. The tea selection is also fantastic, and waiting on the table are caddies of loose leaves that you make up into your own bags. You can add glasses of bubbly if you want, and in good weather there are tables in the courtyard outside.
Available daily between 12.30pm and 4pm
Loetje, Korte Geer 1A, 2611 CA Delft
Right next door to Hotel Arsenaal and part of the same historic building is the Delft branch of Netherlands-wide steakhouse chain Loetje. It specialises in beef tenderloin, served up the Dutch way with lots of rich gravy and chunks of bread to soak up any leftovers, but there are other options (some vegetarian) too. The setting is stunning – brick walls and floors, huge leafy plants and contemporary chandeliers dangling from soaring ceilings.
Open daily from 11.30am-10pm
Le Petit Chef, Emmastraat 49, 2282 AN Rijswijk
This French bistro is actually in the neighbouring town of Rijswijk rather than Delft, but it’s easily accessible via tram line 1 (get off at the Herenstraat stop) and well worth the 15-minute journey. Not only is the classic French food top-notch, but the decor is beautiful: elegant, cosy and gently opulent, with burnt-orange velvet banquettes, petrol-blue panelling, vintage crockery, reeded glass lamps, and dancing candles reflected in mirrored walls. There are also covered and non-covered terraces outside, where you can sit back with coffee or wine and pretend you’re in Paris.
Open Monday-Friday 8.30am-11pm, and Saturday and Sunday 9am-11pm
I’ve also heard excellent things about LOT Coffee Boutique (Voldersgracht 6, 2611 ET Delft), which was temporarily closed due to maternity leave during our visit but is set to reopen soon.
What to see, do & Explore in Delft:
The canals
Spanned by some 400 or so bridges, Delft’s tree-lined canal network is wonderfully atmospheric and picturesque. There are three main north-south waterways known as grachten, plus numerous narrower sloten running east-west between them. We started with a boat tour [AD – affiliate link] to get our bearings, then enjoyed gentle strolls with no particular aim or agenda. We were particularly captivated by the Oude Delft canal, which was dug in 1100 and is one of the oldest in the Netherlands. It’s quieter than the others and flanked by beautiful (and often delightfully wonky) townhouses, as well historic buildings such as the ornate 16th-century Gemeenlandshuis – one of the few structures to survive a catastrophic fire which tore through the city in 1536.
Pottery painting at the Royal Delft factory, Rotterdamseweg 196, 2628 AR Delft
Delft is synonymous with its hand-painted blue and white pottery, and we had a go at decorating some for ourselves during a workshop at the Royal Delft factory. You can choose between painting a plate or a tile, which will then be fired (the black glaze turns blue under heat) and mailed on to you a few weeks later. It’s a fun and very absorbing thing to do, and you can go as contemporary or as classic as you like with your design – I created a rather abstract tree, whereas Chris did a row of traditional Dutch townhouses. Make sure you arrive in good time to have a wander around the on-site museum and shop to get some ideas beforehand, but don’t worry if inspiration doesn’t strike, as the staff can provide templates to copy.
Museum and shop open 9.30am-5pm daily; pottery-painting workshops Tuesday-Sunday at 2pm (reserve in advance)
The Vermeer Centrum, Voldersgracht 21, 2611 EV Delft
Delft’s other most famous export is the artwork of Dutch Master painter Johannes Vermeer (1632-1675), who lived, worked and died in the city. All of it is now exhibited elsewhere, but the Vermeer Centrum is a great place to learn more about the man himself. There are exhibitions exploring the hidden motifs behind his work and how it’s linked to the wider story of his family and the city, as well as a look at how he used light, composition and pigment in ways that hadn’t been done before. It’s fascinating stuff, and the kind of background info that you rarely get in a normal gallery.
Open 10am-5pm daily
Oude Kerk and Nieuwe Kerk, Heilige Geestkerkhof 25, 2611 HP Delft and Markt 80, 2611 GW Delft
Delft has two main churches. A joint ticket buys you entry to both, and they’re worth a visit for their interesting histories and contrasting architectural styles. Built in the 13th and 14th centuries, the Oude Kerk (‘Old Church’) sits next to the Oude Delft canal, which had to be diverted to make way for its construction. The wet ground caused its foundations to sink and as a result the tower (not open to the public) has an impressive lean. The whitewashed interior is the burial place of Vermeer and various other figures, whose stories are explored via exhibition panels (there are QR codes to scan for English translations).
Looming over the city’s main market square, the Nieuwe Kerk (‘New Church’) dates from a little later and is notable for containing the vault of the Dutch royal family. You can also climb to the top of its tower – the second highest in the Netherlands – for sweeping views over Delft and beyond.
Both churches open Monday-Saturday 11am-5pm; closed on Sunday
The Botanic Garden (TUI Hortus Botanicus), Poortlandplein 6, 2628 BM Delft
I always enjoy exploring botanic gardens and Delft’s, which is run by the city’s university, was no exception. There are peaceful lawns, meandering paths, towering tree ferns, ponds studded with giant lily pads and glasshouses brimming with tropical plants. The signs and info boards are a bit haphazard – some have been translated into English, some are in Dutch only and some are missing altogether – but it’s still a lovely place to wander. And when you need a coffee break, the little outdoor cafe does excellent flat whites complete with botanical-themed latte art.
Open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-5pm (March to October only); closed on Monday
TIP: on the walk to and from the botanic garden, look out for Oostpoort (below). It’s the only surviving example of the city gates that once encircled Delft.
The Prinsenhof Museum, Sint Agathaplein, 2611 HR Delft
Once a monastery, the Prinsenhof Museum now houses Dutch Golden Age paintings, prints, contemporary ceramics and more. It’s also notable for being where William of Orange was assassinated in 1584, and the bullet holes are still visible in the walls of the main stairway.
Open Tuesday-Sunday 11am-5pm; closed on Monday except during school holidays
Street art
Delft has numerous public art installations in all manner of styles and you can find a free self-guided walking tour around them here. My favourites included a trio of blue and white ceramic lampposts from Wendy Steenks and Chinese artist Zhang Ling Yun, which sits in leafy Sint Agathaplein behind the Prinsenhoff Museum and highlights the Chinese porcelain from which Delftware is derived; and ‘Voor de kunst’, a former phone booth which has been dubbed ‘the smallest museum in the Netherlands’ and exhibits work by a different artist every month. I also spent ages staring at the intricate detail on a giant 3D ceramic map of the city in 1678, which was created along the narrow alleyway of Papenstraat in 2020 by artists Nan Deardorff-McClain and Colja de Roo plus a team of 500 volunteers.
Where to shop IN DELFT:
A . Gallery, Haagweg 137, 2281 AG Rijswijk
Owned and curated by Holly Marder of Avenue Design Studio, whose beautiful home is in my book and led me to Delft in the first place, A . Gallery has a selection of furniture, artwork, ceramics and other pieces by talented artists, makers and designers. I’ll be covering it fully in a separate post, but it’s nothing short of stunning – softly minimalist and bathed in natural light, with layers of inviting texture. Like Le Petit Chef, it’s technically in Rijswijk but again easily reachable via tram – and the two places are very close to each other if you want to combine some interiors shopping with a delicious lunch. Holly and her team are on hand to advise and can arrange shipping if any of the larger pieces take your fancy.
Open Thursday and Friday, and at other times by appointment
Groene Vingers, Burgwal 23, 2611 GE Delft
This beautiful store (whose name translates as ‘Green Fingers’) has all manner of plants, as well as pots, candles, cushions and other homeware.
Open Monday 1pm-5.30pm, Tuesday-Friday 10am-5.30pm, Saturday 9.30am-5pm and Sunday 12pm-5pm
UNFOLD, Markt 27, 2611 GP Delft
UNFOLD has a carefully curated range of minimalist clothes and accessories from brands in the Netherlands and beyond. There are candles and scent diffusers, too.
Open Tuesday-Friday 10.30am-5.30pm and Saturday 10am-5pm; closed on Sunday and Monday
Blauwe Roos Antiek, Markt 2, 2611 GT Delft
Housed in one of the city’s most iconic buildings, this Tardis-like shop specialises in antique Delftware and hand-painted 19th- and 20th-century tiles.
Open Thursday-Sunday 11am-6pm; closed on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday
Van der Burgh Chocolaad, Vrouwenregt 2, 2611 KK Delft
This little chocolate shop has a counter with handmade treats that can be added to selection boxes of different sizes, plus a wide range of bars wrapped in Vermeer- and Delftware-inspired paper that make wonderful presents. And the smell as you walk in is amazing!
Open Monday-Saturday 10am-5pm; closed on Sunday
Royal Delft brand and outlet stores, Markt 62, 2611 GW Delft
If you don’t make it to the Royal Delft factory, you can browse its shop and neighbouring outlet store in the city centre.
Open 10.30am-5.30pm daily
Heinen Delfts Blauw Concept Store, Hippolytusbuurt 3, 2611 HM Delft
Another ceramics producer, Heinen Delfts Blauw, has a concept store selling contemporary takes on Delftware vases, tableware, candleholders and tiles, as well as Delftware-inspired textiles. Its more traditional pieces can be found in a separate shop at Markt 45.
Open 8am-6pm daily
Henri Willig, Markt 43, 2611 GR Delft
Cheese maker Henri Willig’s Delft shop is heaven for cheese lovers such as myself! There are crackers, dips and chutneys too, although sadly it doesn’t yet offer tasting sessions, which we once did at the Amsterdam branch and very much enjoyed.
Open Monday-Friday 10am-7pm, and Saturday and Sunday 10am-8pm
Getting to Delft & getting around
Delft has trains from all over the Netherlands, including twice-hourly services from Amsterdam (where you can connect with the Eurostar and other international rail) and Schipol airport (served by flights from all over the world). The journey time from the latter is 40 minutes. There are also some flights, Eurostar services and international trains to Rotterdam, which is only 12 minutes from Delft.
As you arrive in Delft, make sure you look up at the ceiling of the station’s main concourse. It’s covered in a map of the city, made up of thousands of aluminium slats which reveal different perspectives as you move beneath them.
Once you’re in Delft, everything is within walking distance, although the city does share a tram network with neighbouring Rijswijk and The Hague.
Please note this city guide to Delft contains affiliate links (all clearly marked), which means I will receive a small commission on any resulting bookings. You won’t pay any more by clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly, and it helps to support the free content I create here.
Images of De Centrale, La Tasca, Gaia and Le Petit Chef courtesy of the respective restaurants; all other photography by Abi Dare
Leave a Reply