[Advertisement – this post is based on a press trip, but all words and opinions are my own]
After a very relaxing stay in south-east Skåne, Emma and I packed our bags and set off on the two-hour drive across country to the region’s north-west corner. We could have done the journey in less time if we’d stuck to the motorways but we chose to take a slower, more scenic route, following winding roads through fields and sun-dappled forests. En route we passed picture-postcard wooden cottages, peaceful lakes and occasional signs warning of elk and deer, though sadly any wildlife stayed hidden from view.
Our destination was the sleepy village of Vejbystrand, which sits on the coast gazing out across the Kattegat Sea. It made an excellent base for exploring the area, and over the next two days we visited nature reserves, harbour towns, seaside restaurants and stunning gardens. We soon realised that the scenery in this part of Skåne is more dramatic than the gently rolling plains of the south-east, with wooded hills, jagged cliffs and pounding waves, and we relished having the chance to see two such contrasting sides of the county.
Here are my highlights from this leg of the trip…
Villa Sigrid
Our accommodation in the north west was Villa Sigrid, a black wooden cabin hidden down a peaceful lane that was lined with white flowers during our late-May visit. It’s small and simply furnished but very pretty, with tongue-and-groove walls, snuggly blankets, knitted cushions, locally made ceramics, a private garden, and wellies and raincoats waiting by the door. There’s only one bedroom – a light-filled space with patio doors that I flung open so I could enjoy the breeze over my morning coffee – but the living room has a sofabed which Emma (who drew the short straw) assured me was very comfortable. We both loved the homely feel, and having our own space where we could spread out, relax and take each day at a slow pace.
The cabin is kitted out with everything you need for self-catering and comes stocked with tea, coffee, milk, butter and a few locally made treats. But you don’t have to cook if you don’t want to. On our first evening, we picked up takeaway pizzas from the restaurant just up the road and ate them on the deck, listening to birdsong as the sky slowly turned rose-pink. On the second evening, we filled a hamper with bread, cheese and fruit from nearby farm shop Sandgården and wandered down to Vejbystrand’s sweeping beach for a sunset picnic on the sand. Dining outside in the magical Scandinavian light was a real treat, but Villa Sigrid has an indoor table and plenty of candles for guests who aren’t so lucky with the weather.
Pålsjöbaden and Pålsjö Krog
Half an hour south of Vejbystrand is Helsingborg, Skåne’s second city. It’s famous for its open-air sea baths, and we headed there intending to take a sauna and a dip at one of them, Pålsjöbaden. I’ll be honest and admit that we ended up chickening out – not because of the cold water, but because swimsuits aren’t allowed and we didn’t fancy baring all! It certainly wasn’t a wasted journey, though. Not only did the row of pastel-coloured huts perched on stilts above the waves make a wonderful sight, we also enjoyed a fantastic meal at the neighbouring Pålsjö Krog restaurant. It occupies a graceful old building right on the beach, with views of the baths through tall wooden windows, and has a shaded veranda for balmy summer days. The menu encompasses locally caught fish and seafood alongside a few international dishes, and I had perfectly cooked prawns with melba toast, followed by a huge bowl of creamy mushroom pasta. Yum!
Sofiero Palace
On our way back from Pålsjöbaden we made an impromptu stop at Sofiero Palace on the edge of Helsingborg, and I’m so glad we did. It sits in beautiful gardens cascading down towards the sea, and we spent a contended couple of hours strolling around wisteria-covered walkways, lily-studded ponds and 19th-century glasshouses built to grow fruit in the harsh Swedish winter. Most magical of all was a deep ravine brimming with rhododendron bushes – more than 10,000 of them! – in every shade of the rainbow, where we both got carried away taking photos. We didn’t venture inside the palace building itself, but it looked fairytale-pretty from the outside and is home to one of the top-rated restaurants in Sweden. One for another time, perhaps.
Sofiero Gård
Just across the road from the palace entrance is Sofiero Gård, a former barn that’s been turned into a café, bakery and events space. It’s a great place to stop for lunch or fika, and you can also pick up artisan bread, local jams and more to take away. I fell in love with the decor – grey lime-washed walls, mid-century chairs, soft sheepskins, vases of freshly picked wildflowers, and sleek black pendant lights dangling low over the tables. It all combines to create a very stylish yet welcoming vibe, and I could have happily spent hours there sipping coffee and reading magazines.
Mölle
The harbour village of Mölle sits at the foot of the spectacular Kulla Peninsula and makes a lovely place to spend a morning or afternoon. Once a secluded fishing community, it became (in)famous at the end of the 19th century for having Sweden’s first mixed bathing area and attracted visitors from as far afield as Berlin, which was linked by a direct train service. Today it’s an elegant little place with white and lemon-yellow houses, rose-filled gardens and rows of uniform red and blue beach huts. There are also a few art galleries, boutiques and cafés to potter around.
Mölle Krukmakeri
After a stroll around Mölle, we stopped for lunch at Mölle Krukmakeri – a café, restaurant and ceramics shop run by potter Lisa Wohlfart (some of whose understated, rustic wares can be found at Villa Sigrid). Tables spill out from a vine-entangled greenhouse into a leafy walled garden, and there are lots of eclectic little touches – a collection of guitars hanging on one wall, globes dangling from branches, shelves lined with flamenco dolls and vintage bottles. The menu has a mix of Scandinavian and Mediterranean influences, and the dishes are packed with freshly picked produce. I opted for chilled gazpacho soup and a herby mozzarella and tomato salad, and both were delicious.
Kullaberg Nature Reserve
Following the twisting coastal road beyond Mölle (there’s also a signposted trail if you want to walk), we came to the Kullaberg Nature Reserve – a grassy outcrop jutting into the Kattegat Sea, with cave-pocked cliffs plunging down on either side. A path leads through dense vegetation from the main carpark to a lighthouse (Scandinavia’s brightest, apparently), where we spent a while admiring the sweeping views – and holding our breath when a few other visitors ventured a little too close to the edge! We then followed steps down onto the rocks beneath, which were blanketed with wildflowers and dotted with rock pools left by the retreating tide. In no hurry to do anything other than soak up the scenery, we lingered on a boulder for ages, enjoying the salty sea breeze, the warmth of the sun on our faces and the sound of the waves crashing around us – somehow both relaxing and invigorating at the same time. If you’re feeling a bit more active than we were, there are GPS-guided cave walks and kayaking tours on offer, and in high summer boat safaris can take you out in search of the porpoises who inhabit the waters around the reserve.
Flickorna Lundgren
Situated just off the main road towards Mölle and the Kulla Peninsula is Flickorna Lundgren, where we headed for yet another fika fix. You just choose what you want from the counter, find a spot in the red wooden cottage or on the sea-view lawn outside, and within minutes a server will appear to lay your table with a checked cloth, vintage crockery and copper pots. We indulged in cardamom buns, coconut-dusted chocolate balls and a big slab of gooey chocolate tart (all in the name of research, of course!), and everything was as tasty as it was pretty.
You can find out more about north-west Skåne here, and I’ll share the final part of our trip next week…
Many thanks to Visit Skåne for covering our flights, car hire, accommodation and expenses.
All photography by Abi Dare
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