Exploring Finnish Lapland in winter

[Advertisement – this post is based on a press trip, but all words and opinions are my own]

Few places have captured my heart the way Finnish Lapland did. I loved the vast skies and the fresh Arctic air (the cleanest in the world, apparently). I loved the frozen lakes and the silent forests, with their towering pine trees and spruces twisted into otherworldly shapes under the weight of snow. And I loved the ethereal, ever-changing light. Visiting in January meant short days, but during the few hours between sunrise (10am) and sunset (3pm) I was treated to a luminous glow that gradually shifted from rose-pink to silver, gold and then a deep cerulean blue. I even liked the cold – the temperature reached as low as -29C at one point, but I felt more energised and invigorated than I ever do in the damp drizzle back home.

I’ve already written about Design Hotel Levi – the brand-new and very stylish hotel that I was visiting with a small group of journalists – so for the second post from my trip I want to focus on the various activities and attractions that make a winter stay in Lapland so special. But first, a few words about practicalities. As I’ve mentioned before, our base was the small town of Levi, 170km above the Arctic Circle. Getting there is easy – it’s only 10 minutes from Kittilä Airport, which is served by some international flights as well as regular links to Helsinki, and two hours from the regional capital of Rovaniemi. We arrived via the latter, whose airport has a wider range of routes (including direct easyJet and Norwegian flights from London Gatwick); there are also trains from elsewhere in Finland, if you want to be more sustainable or if you’re including Lapland as part of a wider tour. The hotel can arrange transfers, and taxis are readily available for getting around once you’re there. But hiring a car is also an option – the roads are icy but generally passable, and as long as you have winter tyres (required by law during the colder months) and don’t head out in a snowstorm, then you should be fine.

When it comes to packing and dressing for the cold, layers are key. I generally wore thermal tights, thermal leggings and two pairs of thermal ski socks beneath padded ski trousers (or jeans, if I was just wandering out for dinner); on top, I opted for a thermal base layer beneath knitwear, a fleece and a ski jacket. Snow boots, gloves (mittens with separate liners are best), a hat and a scarf / snood are also essential. If you don’t have the right kit, you can hire it when you arrive – just ask at the hotel and they’ll direct you to a shop around the corner.

Now, on to what we got up to during the three-day stay…

Cocooning 

Our first morning in Lapland saw us swaying gently in hammocks, snuggled up beneath thick blankets as any stresses and strains drifted away. It was part of the ‘cocooning’ session on offer at HaliPuu (‘Hugging Tree’) and although it sounds odd, it was a wonderful and very calming experience.

HaliPuu is the brainchild of Riitta Raekallio-Wunderink and her father, who inherited a beautiful swathe of land and decided to share their love for it with others. Inspired by the Japanese concept of ‘forest bathing’, they set about creating an area where visitors can lie back and soak up the serenity of nature. Riitta’s passion for the trees is infectious, and as we walked through the forest to our hammocks she introduced us to different species, explaining how deciduous varieties shut down over winter while evergreen trees still have warmth and life coming from within.

As soon as I was tucked up in my cocoon I felt myself relax, and I began to notice little things around me: a bird flitting among the branches, the muffled clump of snow falling from a tree, the way the frozen bark sparkled in the soft light. I didn’t want to get up once my hammock time was over, but more treats awaited: toasted marshmallows made from foraged berries, and coffee brewed in the open air by Riitta’s husband’s Steffan, who describes himself as the world’s only professional campfire barrista. He’s spent years perfecting a blend that matches the fire’s smokiness, and it definitely ranks among the best cuppas I’ve ever had. He also serves coffee from a sleigh that he tows into Levi most afternoons, should you want another later on!

Husky sledding

Dog mushing is a traditional means of transport in the Arctic, and whizzing along on a sled pulled by a team of huskies is unforgettable. We ventured out on a 4km safari, and I loved seeing these beautiful, intelligent creatures in action – their excitement and eagerness to run was evident. You can have a go at driving the sled if you want, but I was happy to sit back and enjoy the ride, watching the landscape whoosh past and listening to the musher’s melodic commands. Afterwards, we warmed up with hot berry juice while learning more about the dogs themselves, and I was intrigued to hear how they thrive in the harsh climate.

A word of warning: husky sledding is huge fun, but it’s not exactly a gentle experience! You’ll be bumped and jolted all over the place, so bear that in mind if you have any kind of back pain or joint issue. Also, make sure you choose a reputable outfit that cares for its dogs and looks after them properly once their working life is over – the hotel can advise.

Reindeer encounters

If you fancy a more serene but no less magical journey through the wilderness, try a reindeer sleigh ride. Reindeer have been an integral part of Lapland life for thousands of years, providing meat, hides and transport, and their links with the indigenous Sámi people run deep. In fact, reindeer herding is still an important source of income, and it’s estimated that there are roughly the same number of reindeer in the region as there are people! The Levi area has several farms offering sleigh rides – again, just ask at the hotel. It’s not something we got to do ourselves, but we did come across some reindeer near town and I couldn’t resist stopping for photos. They were in a winter enclosure but many graze freely, so it’s worth keeping your eyes peeled as you travel around.

Snowshoeing 

Donning snowshoes is another wonderful way to explore the landscape. I’d tried it in the French Alps a couple of weeks prior to this trip and really enjoyed it, so I was delighted to get another go on a two-hour afternoon wander along the fell above Levi. It takes a few minutes to get used to walking with something that looks like a tennis racket strapped to each foot, but once you get the hang of it nothing quite beats heading off the beaten track onto crisp, untrodden snow. As we walked our friendly guide pointed out animal tracks and landmarks, and along the way we paused to watch the sunset over steaming berry juice and freshly baked ginger cookies – magical.

A sauna and ice swim

A wood-fired sauna on the shore of a frozen lake sounded like the perfect way to warm up after a day of wintry adventures – until I realised that a traditional Finnish sauna also involves plunging into the water through a hole carved in the ice! I was determined not to chicken out, but I thought I’d have one dip and leave it at that. In the end, I managed four. Alternating between the heat and cold was a real endorphin rush, and I can see why people become addicted to it. And I swear my skin glowed afterwards – I even felt confident enough to post a no-make-up selfie on Instagram Stories, which was a first for me!

If you fancy braving it yourself, the private saunas at Lake Immel accommodate up to 15 people and can be hired for two-hour slots. Each sits in its own cabin, with steps leading into the lake behind, and drinks and towels are included in the rate.

SnowVillage

A short drive from Levi is SnowVillage, Finland’s famous ice hotel. Each autumn, around 20 million kilos of snow and 350,000 kilos of natural ice are used to build the spectacular structure, which is filled with sculptures and remains open until it starts to melt in April. You can book a night’s stay in one of the 16 rooms (insulated sleeping bags keep you snug) or, like we did, pop in for a look around and a drink in the ice bar. There’s even a chapel, should you wish to tie the knot while you’re there…

Aurora hunting

Sadly the shimmering green and purple ribbons of the Aurora Borealis, otherwise known as the Northern Lights, remained elusive during our time in Levi, but we were unlucky – it’s one of the best places in the world to see them. You can book evening tours that take you away from streetlights in search of the best view, but on good nights they’re often visible in the town itself. Next time, perhaps!

Galleria Raekallio

There’s plenty of local art on display at Design Hotel Levi, but to see more we headed to the tiny hamlet of Pöntsö, where the home, studio and gallery of painter Reijo Raekallio is open daily from 10am to 6pm. You can stop in unannounced for coffee, cake and a browse, or book ahead for a delicious lunch prepared by his welcoming and incredibly elegant wife Maria. The wooden house (hand-built by Reijo’s father) and its setting are almost as beautiful as the works inside, which span 50 years and depict everything from local landscapes to dancing figures. If you’re lucky, Reijo might even serenade you with his mandolin.

Skiing 

We didn’t have time to ski during our stay, but Levi is a great place for it should you want to give it a go. The 43 pistes are normally open from October to mid-May and range from gentle runs to challenging black ones; there are also cross-country trails for Nordic skiing. You can buy ski passes via the hotel, and there are several ski-hire shops to choose from. Lessons and guides are easy to arrange, too.

Rovaniemi

Finally, Rovaniemi is well worth a visit – especially if you’re arriving or departing via its airport or station. It’s not exactly pretty, but it’s certainly interesting. After being almost entirely destroyed during the Second World War, it was rebuilt with input from renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, who designed the street plan to resemble a reindeer’s head. The roads form its antlers, and the local stadium is its eye; there’s also a spectacular bridge which soars over the wide (and often frozen) Ounasjoki river.

The city is home to Arktikum, a fascinating museum charting the nature, history and cultures of the Arctic. I really enjoyed learning about the traditional Sámi way of life and about how climate change is already having a dramatic impact on the polar regions; we also had a very tasty lunch in its airy, pine-clad restaurant. The building itself is stunning, too: a lofty glass concourse rising from the riverbank, with exhibition halls hidden underground to mimic the way Arctic animals shelter by burrowing into the snow.

Another must-do in Rovaniemi is Villa Vinkkeli, a gallery and event space run by photographer Kaisa Sirén, whose images are on display at Design Hotel Levi. It often hosts temporary exhibitions of local artists’ work, and at other times Kaisa will happily open by arrangement; she can even provide food and transfers on request. I found my visit truly inspiring: she uses a technique called ‘Intentional Camera Movement’, which involves deliberately shaking the camera to produce beautifully abstract images, and her work is awash with life and colour. I love the way she captures the beauty of Lapland’s light and seasons, and I left feeling motivated to be a bit more creative with my own photography.

Find more information on Levi here, and book a stay at Design Hotel Levi here. And thank you to the hotel for hosting such a wonderful trip – I left feeling as if my soul belongs in Lapland, and I know I’ll return. 

All photography by Abi Dare