Top tips for Copenhagen

Someone once told me that it’s difficult not to feel at home in Copenhagen, even if you don’t speak a word of Danish. That certainly rings true, and it’s a city I’ve felt drawn to again and again, ever since my first visit through a school exchange programme at the age of 14. For me, Copenhagen has it all – elegant boulevards, pretty little streets lined with houses painted in ochre, grey and duck-egg blue, wonderful parks and museums, an easy-going atmosphere, bikes and boats (a bit like Bristol!), and all manner of shops and restaurants. And as you’d expect, the whole place is faultlessly stylish.

I’ve recently returned from my tenth visit, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to update my top tips on where to stay, eat, shop and explore…

Stay at:

Nobis Hotel Copenhagen, Niels Brocks Gade 1, city centre

Set in the former Royal Danish Academy of Music, Nobis Hotel is where I stayed on my last visit to Copenhagen, and I loved everything about it. It has a very handy location near Central Station and Tivoli, and it’s beautiful throughout. The 75 rooms and suites are decorated in deep blues and greens, with tan leather furniture and black four-poster beds, and there are iconic mid-century chairs and lamps dotted throughout. Most stunning of all, though, is the sweeping marble staircase, complete with a contemporary chandelier dangling down through all five floors. It’s certainly not cheap, but it’s worth splashing out on if you can afford it…

Read my full review of Nobis Hotel Copenhagen here.

Hotel Danmark, Vester Voldgade 89, city centre

Managed by the Brøchner group, this stylish hotel is spread across an 18^th-century townhouse and a 1960s office block that have been revamped by architect Morten Hedegaard. The 88 rooms come in soothing shades of grey, green and white, with sleek black bedframes, brass lamps from Swedish brand RUBN and beautiful textiles from Danish company Aiayu; there are also six-berth bunk rooms for those on a budget. At the top is a pretty roof terrace; downstairs, a bar where free wine is served every evening from 5 to 6pm.

Read my full review of Hotel Danmark here.

Hotel SP34, Sankt Peders Stræde 34, city centre

Also part of the Brøchner Hotels stable, SP34 has art-filled communal areas, chic industrial touches (polished concrete, exposed pipework) and yes, another free wine hour. The bedrooms all share the same simple but striking aesthetic, with iron-grey walls, smoked-glass lighting and curved headboards fashioned from salvaged chair backs, and breakfast is served in the plant-filled Väkst restaurant (see below). It’s been open for a few years and some areas are in need of a bit of love and care, but all in all it’s still a great place to stay.

Read my full review of Hotel SP34 here.

Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, city centre

Housed in a former Modernist department store in the heart of the Latin Quarter, just a five-minute walk from Nørreport metro station, Skt. Petri is sophisticated and gently glamorous. The 288 rooms are dressed in moody blacks and greys, with pops of purple and emerald green, and one wall of each is covered in white geometric moulding that looks like a contemporary take on Moorish tiling. Downstairs is a vast marble-clad lobby with a restaurant and bar, and the breakfast buffet is one of the best I’ve ever come across.

Read my full review of Hotel Skt. Petri here.

Other places which I haven’t stayed at myself but which come highly recommended: Hotel Herman K,  STAY Copenhagen, STAY Seaport, Radisson Royal Hotel and Hotel Sanders

Explore: 

The Rundetårn, Købmagergade 52A, city centre

The Rundetårn (‘Round Tower’) is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe, and a climb to the top is a great way to get your bearings. It’s unique for having a cobbled spiral walkway rather than stairs, supposedly so that the king could ride his horse to the top (a car is said to have driven up it in 1902!), and the view is spectacular, particularly at sunset.

Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Dantes Plads 7, city centre

The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek was founded in 1888 by the brewer Carl Jacobsen and displays an extensive collection of ancient Greek, Etruscan, Egyptian and Roman artifacts, together with Danish and French art from the 19th and 20th centuries. It’s housed in a stunning purpose-built building with a palm-filled winter garden, a roof terrace and a sleek modern extension.

The Botanical Garden, Gothersgade 128, city centre

The Botanical Garden is one of my favourite places in the whole of Copenhagen, and a true oasis in the heart of the city. There are rambling lawns, a willow-lined lake, colourful flowerbeds and cacti-filled greenhouses, but most interesting of all is the elegant old palm house. If you can stand the heat, climb the spiral staircase to the walkway in the dome and gaze down on tropical foliage from above.

Read more about the Botanical Garden here.

Designmuseum Danmark, Bredgade 68, city centre

A must for design lovers, this wonderful museum charts the history of Danish design from the Middle Ages to the present day. My favourite displays are those devoted to mid-century modernism, where you’ll find pieces by renowned names such as Poul Henningsen, Kaare Klint and Arne Jacobsen. Interestingly, the building it’s housed in was once Denmark’s first public hospital.

The waterfront, city centre

Copenhagen’s waterfront is hard to beat on a sunny day. Wander along the western shore (or zip along on a ferry) and you’ll pass the striking ‘Black Diamond’ (the national library), the colourful pavement cafés of Nyhavn (touristy but great for an alfresco coffee), the Amaliehaven gardens (with excellent views across to Henning Larsen’s contemporary Royal Opera House) and Amalienborg Slot (the royal palace). I’d recommend avoiding the famous statue of the Little Mermaid at the northern end, though – it’s disappointingly small and normally mobbed with coach parties.

Cisternerne, Søndermarken Park, Frederiksberg

Underneath Søndermarken Park in the Frederiksberg district is a cavernous 19^th-century water cistern that has been drained and turned into a contemporary art space. It houses a programme of temporary installations, and its dripping arches, echoing music and illuminated columns of water are wonderfully eerie.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Gammel Strandvej 13, Humlebæk

This sprawling museum in the coastal town of Humlebæk (half an hour by train from the city), houses a vast collection of modern art in a striking mid-century building. It’s worth the journey for the setting alone, in lush seaside gardens which gaze across the Øresund strait to Sweden. 

Other places which I haven’t yet visited myself but which come highly recommended: Kastrup Sea Bath, Grundtvig’s Church and Thorvalsdens Museum

Shop at:

Illums Bolighus, Amagertorv 10, city centre

This four-floor homeware emporium is a paradise for design lovers. It sits on Strøget, the pedestrianised shopping street that twists up through the middle of the city, and brings together all the iconic Danish brands under one roof. I always end up spending hours (and a lot more money than I should!) inside. 

HAY, Østergade 61, city centre

HAY’s flagship store is just a few steps from Illums Bolighus and occupies several floors of a beautiful light-filled old building. It’s quirky and colourful, just like the brand itself, and has a much bigger range than other HAY outlets. 

Stilleben, Niels Hemmingsens Gade 3, city centre

Set just off Strøget, this little lifestyle store stocks fashion, homeware and art from Danish and international designers. You’ll find handmade ceramics, cushions, prints, jewellery and more.

Frama, Fredericiagade 57, city centre

Frama’s Copenhagen studio and store occupies a 19th-century pharmacy whose beautiful old display cases and ornate moldings have been retained and restored. They now sit alongside raw-plaster walls and bare floorboards, creating a striking contrast. The selection includes minimalist lighting, furniture, ceramics and artwork, plus the brand’s renowned range of perfumes and skincare products. The space also hosts regular exhibitions.

Ditte Fischer, Læderstræde 14, city centre

I love Ditte Fischer’s strikingly simple matte ceramics, which include vases, mugs, jewellery and hanging planters. The flagship boutique is tiny but beautiful (move carefully if you’re carrying a big bag!), and there’s often a box of marked-down seconds to rummage through.

Retro Villa, Naboløs 1 kld, city centre

This lovely little shop is packed with Scandinavian ceramics and second-hand homeware, plus a few contemporary pieces. It also stocks a huge collection of vintage wallpaper.

Other shops which I haven’t visited myself but which come highly recommended: Dansk Made for Rooms and Norse Projects (different branches for men and women)

Eat and drink at: 

Nærvær, Strandgade 87C, Krøyers Plads, Christianshavn

Designed by Norm Architects, this stylish yet laid-back place sits right on the waterfront in Christianshavn (just across the bridge from Nyhavn) and was conceived as a place where friends can come together to relax. There’s a wine bar with a menu of delicious small dishes (my top tip is the cheese platter), plus an intimate restaurant serving no more than 10 people at a time. If you can, bag a table in the window and watch boats pootle past.

Høst, Nørre Farimagsgade 41, city centre

Høst is the Danish word for ‘harvest’ and it’s a fitting name for this wonderful restaurant, which serves Nordic dishes brimming with seasonal flavours. I love the urban-meets-rustic decor with its exposed-stone walls and hanging plants, and the excellent tasting menus, which always include a few surprises. On my last visit I was treated to oysters with pickled cucumber, baked hake with a blue-mussel sauce and rhubarb sorbet with a chocolate herb crumb, among other things.

Väkst, Sankt Peders Stræde 34, city centre

Located inside Hotel SP34 and run by the same people as Høst, Väkst is decked out like a greenhouse, with shelves of potted plants and foliage dangling down from above. It’s a little cheaper than its sister restaurant and the menu isn’t quite as inventive, but it’s just as tasty and has the same focus on seasonal Scandinavian ingredients.

Atelier September, Gothersgade 30, city centre

This airy, informal cafe serves drinks, breakfast, brunch and cakes, always wholesome and often with a Japanese twist. Expect the likes of granola dusted with matcha tea powder, avocado and tomato on rye bread, and burrata with fennel and blood orange.

Almanak, The Standard, Havnegade 44, city centre

Housed in The Standard, an iconic mint-green Art Deco building on the waterfront, Almanak serves seasonal Danish fare in a refined but informal setting. The menu encompasses local seafood and meat, wild berries, inventive vegetable combinations and foraged herbs, and the whole place has been beautifully designed by Danish-Italian duo GamFratesi.

Aamanns, Oster Farimagsgade 12, city centre

I love Aamanns’ modern take on traditional Danish smørrebrød, served with homemade botanical-infused schnapps. Choose between the cosy restaurant or the airy sit-in deli, or pick up a picnic to enjoy in the Botanical Garden nearby. There’s also a more formal sister restaurant, Aamanns 1921, on Niels Hemmingsens Gade.

Salon 39, Vodroffsvej 39, Frederiksberg

My husband loves this cocktail bar and restaurant, so we make a beeline for it whenever we’re in Copenhagen together. It’s located in leafy Frederiksberg and decked out like an old American speakeasy, with velvet curtains, artfully peeling walls and glowing candles. The drinks are delicious, the staff friendly and the burgers enormous!

Other places which I haven’t tried myself but which come highly recommended: Øl & Brød, Restaurant IBU, Relae and Bæst

P.S. If you want to know more about Copenhagen’s various neighbourhoods and where to go in each, check out this handy post by Copenhagen native Christina Thaisen. 

Please note some hotel links in this post are affiliate links, which mean I may earn a small commission for the referral. You will never pay more when clicking on these links than you would by visiting the websites directly.

Most photography by Abi Dare; images of Høst and Väkst, plus second and third images of Hotel SP34, via the establishments themselves